Once again, the shift from synthetic to natural was the main highlight at the in-cosmetics Global show in Paris from 16-18 April 2024. At the same time ever-increasing requirements in terms of sustainability and effectiveness led to the rise of upcycled and/or bioinspired ingredients. To illustrate the major trends of this unmissable event, we have selected five key ingredients spotted at the show!
1. A green alternative to PMMA
With Sensory Apple Pomace, Codif Technologie Naturelle introduced its very first functional ingredient. This upcycled alternative to PMMA (small particle size, oil absorption capacity, good spreading surface) is fully biodegradable. It is a micronized sensory powder with mattifying, smoothing and covering properties sourced from apple pomace. It can be used for powder, fluid and compact products.
2. Mibelle, bio-inspired hair care ingredient
To create its new moisturizing active ingredient, Mibelle Biochemistry was inspired by the concept of pine cone scales, which open and close depending on weather conditions! Derived from the recycling of pine cones that are hand-collected in selected French forests PinoPlex [1] penetrates the hair, retaining water and flattening the hair cuticle, leaving hair smoother, shinier and more resistant to breakage. It improves the hair fiber integrity and prevents split ends.
PinoPlex is derived from pine cones that are hand-collected in exceptional and carefully selected French forests.
3. Gaïaline, a skin… and soil regenerator
The new eco-friendly active developed by Laboratoires Expanscience is based on the regenerative cultivation of lin. Obtained using a green process, it is designed to protect, regenerate, and strengthen the skin and hair against daily aggressions. With a protected and reinforced barrier, skin can ensure its regeneration.
But that is not all: the way it is grown is also good for the soil and biodiversity. Gaïaline is made from lin grown according to the principles of certified and regenerative conservation agriculture. Obtained by molecular distillation, the liposoluble active is a linseed oil concentrate enriched with unsaponifiables.
4. A water-resistant film former
On the occasion of in-cosmetics global, Roquette Beauté has introduced its latest ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 [2], a water-resistant film former with a clinically proven lifting effect.
Derived from pea starch, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 5% showed higher water resistance compared to industry benchmark film formers, such as pullulan and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), at the same concentration.
In an in vivo study on 40 volunteers to analyze its tightening power, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 4% significantly decreases fine lines and wrinkles. 82% of the study participants said that fine lines and wrinkles were diminished.
5. Promoting a healthy microbiome to bring comfort to atopic-prone skin
For sensitive skin prone to atopy, Solabia debuts Serenibiome, a 100% natural, COSMOS-approved and twice patented active ingredient. The active design was bioinspired by an epiphytic fungus that protects its host by releasing a powerful glycolipid. Serenibiome bio-selectively inhibits Staphylococcus aureus colonization of the skin to tackle the itch-scratch vicious cycle.
