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A watermelon sampled in summertime is a watermelon at the height of its powers. Though our modern existence gives us access to most foods year-round, a fruit or vegetable tasted in its season—a peach, a tomato, an ear of corn—is a pleasure apart. In her new cover for the August 14, 2023, issue, the architect and artist Victoria Tentler-Krylov turns her attention to one of the urban spaces that most rewards us when we are citybound in August: the green markets. I talked to her about food, urbanity, and building a sustainable future.
You acquired a certain renown for painting food. Are you a foodie?
No, I’m not a foodie, and I don’t love the term. I have been conditioned from childhood not to make a cult out of food. I do like to cook and bake, but I’m not one of those people who rummage through the restaurant reviews for the hottest new place or scour the farmers’ market for the perfect tomato.
I love painting food because I learned to paint in the classical tradition, and still-life studies (fruits, vegetables, flowers, ceramic pots) were a big part of that tradition. But now I get to paint whatever I want, like sushi rolls or French pastries.
What is your attraction to farmers’ markets, especially in a large city like New York?
I love the Union Square Greenmarket for its contrast: you’re in the gritty, dense city, but surrounded by onions and parsley. It’s so funny and incongruous! I know the market has been around for decades, and urban markets are a common concept, but to me it still feels a little strange. That’s what I wanted to convey in this cover.
Do you go to farm stands when you’re outside of the city?
I generally don’t, but a few weeks ago I discovered a community farm right in my town of Closter, New Jersey. I’ve lived in this town for over a year and had no idea it existed. It’s tucked away in the middle of a quiet neighborhood. It’s beautiful, it’s maintained by residents, and it gives away free vegetables! The fact that this farm exists just makes me happy.
You have mentioned to me your interest in urban farming and its potential role in fighting climate change. Can you say more?
New York City has a lot of innovative urban farms and smaller community gardens, which is fantastic. I’ve been doing research on urban farming for a book, and I’m fascinated by how efficient it is for fighting climate change. The best sustainability projects go after more than one or two goals, but urban farms go beyond that. They reduce the urban heat-island effect, because the plants cool the air; they absorb rainwater and reduce risk of flash floods; and they help improve air quality and traffic congestion, because there’s less need to import produce from elsewhere. And, of course, they also help fight against food insecurity and provide educational opportunities for kids. It’s not easy to find space for new urban farms, but we must foster many more: they don’t have to be big, and creativity is key.
For more food covers, see below:
“April 30, 1932,” by Theodore G. Haupt
“August 8, 1964,” by Peter Arno
“Food for Thought,” by Tom Gauld
Find Victoria Tentler-Krylov’s covers, cartoons, and more at the Condé Nast Store.
Sourse: newyorker.com
