Paris Fashion Week is currently underway, presenting notable debuts at Dior, Mugler, and Carven, along with mesmerizing visual experiences from Louis Vuitton and Tom Ford. Daniel Roseberry, the creative head of Schiaparelli, also unveiled his concept for the upcoming season, which, for spring-summer 2026, draws inspiration from Brancusi, a key figure in abstract sculpting. It’s significant that the presentation occurred at the Pompidou Center, where an extensive retrospective dedicated to the Romanian artist, attended by Roseberry, was held eighteen months prior.
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Brancusi’s impact permeated practically every ensemble—Daniel Roseberry used the mastery of a sculptor, manipulating form and dimensions, stripping away all excess and inessentials. The Schiaparelli spring-summer 2026 collection highlighted pencil skirts, paired with form-fitting jackets and minimalist tops. He mainly concentrated on playing with lines within the collection. For instance, the waist on one skirt extended below one hip, with the same line echoed in the outline of a leather top. The designer described experimenting with an oblique cut as novel territory, yet the result was striking; many dresses displayed “slits,” an homage to Schiaparelli’s vintage 1938 painted silk dress. Roseberry incorporated actual cutouts on knitwear, crystal mesh, muslin, and metallic netting—a decidedly couture method, even for Ready-To-Wear selections.
There were also moments of surrealistic inspiration, essential to this French label. One of the most intriguing looks was a skirt suit featuring a texture that resembled fur but was composed of countless tiny tassels. Equally striking were the ‘salt’ jewels illuminated by LED lights, strategically placed to draw attention and highlight the interplay of light, shadow, and contour.
