On November 13, the eighth annual VOGUE UKRAINE CONFERENCE: FORCES OF FASHION 2025 will be held. The central topic this year will be retail. Among the speakers is Olga Nikitkina, head of women’s fashion buying at TSUM, boasting over a decade in the fashion sphere. We engaged in a conversation with Olga about the buyer’s role, Ukrainian consumer preferences, and pathways to joining the nation’s premier department store.
Olga Nikitkina
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How does TSUM Kyiv decide which labels to showcase?
Initially, our emphasis lies on the requirements of our target demographic. We possess an extensive analytical dataset displaying sales patterns across brands, categories, and pricing tiers. This enables us to discern what truly resonates with patrons. Concurrently, we maintain regular interaction with our clientele, considering their desires, ensuring the product selection aligns as closely as possible with the modern shopper’s aspirations.
However, maintaining a forward-thinking approach to trends is crucial. Should an emerging, noteworthy label garner significant buzz among industry insiders, we are always receptive to potential partnerships. This fulfills the customer’s desire for innovation and introduces genuinely pertinent and coveted items.
What guides your selection of pieces from collections, and how do you ascertain what Ukrainian consumers will appreciate?
Our methodology consistently integrates both data analysis and instinct. We persistently examine statistical data—sales figures, categories, successful designs—to pinpoint items that genuinely appeal to our customer base. This establishes a bedrock for informed decisions.
Nevertheless, intuition and “vision” hold equal importance in the realm of fashion. I reside in Kyiv, observing the local style, the rapid assimilation of new trends, and the reactions from the streets, influencers, and media outlets. Collectively, this contributes to sensing the city’s vibe and discerning what will genuinely captivate the Ukrainian consumer.
Another significant facet is visual harmony. We consistently consider the combined appearance of items on the racks, enabling customers to effortlessly assemble various ensembles from a single selection. This results in more than just a collection of pieces—it crafts a cohesive narrative with its distinct aesthetic and rationale.
Which labels and items are invariably excluded from TSUM?
TSUM Kyiv operates with complete transparency, expecting the same from its partner brands. A key initial requirement is the existence of a registered organizational and legal structure, alongside trademark ownership. Labels are required to submit documentation for internal checks, guaranteeing no affiliations with the aggressor country and freedom from state debts.
Concerning the items themselves, we embrace a broad spectrum of styles and trends. Our audience is remarkably diverse, underscoring the significance of accommodating each patron’s preferences. Our non-negotiable standard revolves around superior quality, defined brand identity, and clear positioning. Items falling short of these criteria are simply excluded from TSUM’s inventory.
When making buying decisions, what takes precedence: data, trends, or intuition?
This ranks among the most compelling inquiries within our profession. As Ruth Chapman, the founder of MatchesFashion, once observed, buying occurs at the intersection of robust analytics and magic—a sentiment I wholeheartedly endorse.
Data lays the groundwork—exposing trends, sales structures, and the interplay among categories and price points. Yet, without intuition, this process falters. Fashion consistently reflects the cultural zeitgeist, embodying concepts that emerge today to inspire desire tomorrow.
A buyer’s intuition transcends mere sentiment; it stems from experience, observation, and an understanding of customer culture and behavior. It facilitates perceiving when a label is poised for ascent or when a specific trend has exhausted its potential.
Solely relying on data obscures innovation. Solely relying on feelings undermines structure. Consequently, successful buying harmonizes logic, intuition, and analytics.
Which items from women’s collections currently demonstrate the strongest sales performance?
Recently, we have identified a clear pattern: shoppers seek to invest in premium items that offer lasting value and enduring relevance. This underpins the attraction of TSUM—to procure items merging quality, comfort, and longevity.
Regarding product categories, women’s footwear stands out as a high-performing segment. For several consecutive seasons, Golden Goose and Jimmy Choo have shown robust performance, emerging as customer favorites.
The addition of On, a new brand to our portfolio that debuted last spring, is also noteworthy, displaying impressive dynamics. Its triumph lies in blending technology, comfort, and aesthetics, mirroring the demands of the modern woman.
What counsel would you offer aspiring buyers?
First, maintain unwavering passion for fashion. To excel as a buyer, genuine enthusiasm for the sector, profound understanding, and visceral connection are paramount. Buyers act as guides within the fashion ecosystem, empowering clients to explore novel discoveries.
Concurrently, cultivate analytical prowess—acquire skills in managing figures, data, projections, and mastering business profitability strategies. Proficiency in foreign languages is equally crucial, given our consistent interaction with global partners.
Of course, preparedness for challenges is essential. While buying may seem glamorous, and there is an element of truth in that perception—it genuinely embodies aesthetics, travel, and inspiration—it also entails significant responsibility. If you embrace challenges and invest in self-improvement, you’ll prosper in buying.
PURCHASE TICKETS
Conference Partners:
Fashion Partner: UGG, the iconic Californian brand that redefined comfort as style. UGG provides an unparalleled sense of ease and empowers individuals globally to embrace their authentic selves.
Alcoholic Partner: Don Julio, a tequila brand steeped in history. Unrivaled taste and genuine Mexican essence in every bottle.
Beauty Partner: Vichy Laboratoires, a French dermocosmetic label leveraging groundbreaking advancements and offering pioneering solutions for vibrant skin and hair.
Financial Partner: Sense Bank, a state-owned institution holding leading positions across the Ukrainian banking landscape. Sense Bank actively spearheads and supports initiatives within visual, theatrical, musical, and cinematic arts.
Innovation Partner: Mriya Production, a Ukrainian technology firm specializing in the creation of virtual worlds tailored for videos, games, and international events.
Location: UNIT.City, Ukraine’s inaugural innovation park, established to foster technological entrepreneurship and startups by uniting office spaces, laboratories, educational facilities, residential areas, and coworking environments.
