Ukrainian model, lenswoman, and DJ Kate Underwood is cultivating a thrilling, worldwide life on both sides of the Atlantic. Venya Brikalin encountered her.
Jumpsuit made of polyamide and elastane, Balenciaga, necklace, yellow gold, Tiffany &
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During Paris Fashion Week, the Basque eatery Sugaar, nestled in the center of Saint-Germain, is teeming with activity. A private dinner honoring Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga has just concluded: performers Isabelle Huppert and Anne Hathaway, model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, were all present to congratulate the designer. Upstairs, British journalist and writer Tish Weinstock is commemorating her birthday. Amongst the invitees are designer Heider Ackermann, Princess Olympia of Greece, vocalist Rita Ora, and the instigator of last year’s brat summer, the pop icon Charli XCX.
Silk and polyamide blouse, viscose and cupro skirt, earrings, brass, crystals, all – Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, ring, brass, opal, crystals, Balenciaga, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, Bvlgari
Silk and polyamide blouse, viscose and cupro skirt, earrings, brass, crystals, all – Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, ring, brass, opal, crystals, Balenciaga, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, Bvlgari
The restaurant, designed in the likeness of Serge Gainsbourg’s Parisian residence, was inaugurated two years prior by childhood companions Alexi Poivre and Joachim Rappaport. Joachim’s partner, Kate Underwood, a model and photographer from Kyiv, is in charge of the visual aesthetic of the emerging gastronomic label and the almost sensual images of the asado with chuleta (Spanish ribeye steak) and scarlet carabiner prawns showcased on the establishment’s Instagram profile. She welcomes the A-list crowd wearing a gold Dupont lighter as a necklace, a cigarette, and a piscine du champagne – bubbly with ice served in an oversized wine glass, customary for Parisian high society.
Leather coat, polyamide and elastane jumpsuit, ring, brass, opal, crystals, all – Balenciaga, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, Bvlgari, ring, brass, crystals, vintage
Wool and nylon dress, Rick Owens, leather shoes, Versace, choker, silver-plated brass, Maison Margiela, watch, yellow gold, Cartier
Wool and nylon dress, Rick Owens, leather shoes, Versace, choker, silver-plated brass, Maison Margiela, watch, yellow gold, Cartier
Underwood (the English translation of her surname is Pidlisna) relocated to the French capital half a decade ago. She transported all her belongings from her apartment in the fashionable Williamsburg area of Brooklyn across the ocean: a selection of cameras, a collection of Wolfgang Tillmans and David Lynch records, a leather dresser from Restoration Hardware, and an antique Underwood typewriter.
Kate was born and brought up in Kyiv. Until she turned 16, she was a skilled tennis player. At 18, she cultivated an interest in photography – scrutinizing the work of Jurgen Teller, Mark Borthwick, and David Sims. It was then that she created her artistic alias – the English adaptation of her Ukrainian moniker. In 2010, she claimed the Harper’s Bazaar photo competition prize and commenced taking model tests for the then renowned Star System agency. A booker acquaintance suggested she experiment on the opposite side of the lens – thereby launching her career in modeling. Underwood journeyed to Paris with a cast on her right hand. I assured her at the time that it would bring her luck – and I was not mistaken. The portfolio of the girl with the cast features filming with Charlize Theron in a modernized clip for the legendary J’adore Dior fragrance directed by Romain Gavras, participation in the Thom Browne show in Paris, ventures for Stella McCartney Beauty and Goop.
Dress made of polyamide and elastane, shoes made of leather and polyamide, signet ring, brass, all – Balenciaga, mono earring, yellow gold, emeralds, Kismet by Milka, necklace, brass, silver-plated, crystals, Pearl Octopuss.y, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, INNAN Jewellery, bracelet, yellow gold, vintage, tights, Wolford
Dress made of polyamide and elastane, shoes made of leather and polyamide, signet ring, brass, all – Balenciaga, mono earring, yellow gold, emeralds, Kismet by Milka, necklace, brass, silver-plated, crystals, Pearl Octopuss.y, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, INNAN Jewellery, bracelet, yellow gold, vintage, tights, Wolford
Dress made of polyamide and elastane, shoes made of leather and polyamide, signet ring, brass, all – Balenciaga, mono earring, yellow gold, emeralds, Kismet by Milka, necklace, brass, silver-plated, crystals, Pearl Octopuss.y, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, INNAN Jewellery, bracelet, yellow gold, vintage, tights, Wolford
Dress made of polyamide and elastane, shoes made of leather and polyamide, signet ring, brass, all – Balenciaga, mono earring, yellow gold, emeralds, Kismet by Milka, necklace, brass, silver-plated, crystals, Pearl Octopuss.y, ring, yellow gold, white diamonds, INNAN Jewellery, bracelet, yellow gold, vintage, tights, Wolford
Her budding profession triggered a dynamic shift of residences and locations—time spent in London (she shared her inaugural apartment in Bethnal Green with the aspiring songstress FKA Twigs) and New York, where Underwood documented photo diaries for V Magazine and began performing as a DJ at events such as the London Underground and Baby’s Alright.
Kate and I crossed paths in 2009 on a film location in Kyiv — we collaborated on a collection of photographs for the independent publication Playing Fashion. During breaks, she would venture into the parking area to nurture her six-month-old infant. Underwood became a mother at 18, and now her 16-year-old daughter Eva resides in Paris and attends a prestigious international academy. “For me, from my earliest years, the embodiment of resilient women — my mom and grandma — and the sentiment of unwavering affection and encouragement that existed between them were vital. I’m endeavoring to forge a similar bond with my daughter.”
Blazer and trousers in wool and silk, all by Loewe, earrings, brass, crystals, Schiaparelli
Brass bag, Rabanne, coffee bracelet, brass, gold plating, Charlotte Chesnais, watch, yellow gold, Cartier, earrings, brass, Zimmermann
Leather sandals, Giuseppe Zanotti
Women like Underwood are frequently labeled as “the it girl”: I have witnessed the ambiance of a room alter more than once upon Kate’s arrival. Enveloped in striking black Rick Owens gowns and Balenciaga outerwear with expansive, sometimes astronomically large shoulders, she unreservedly commands notice. Her friendship circle encompasses curators, models, restaurateurs, visual artists, and musicians. And on her striking Instagram, which boasts 110,000 followers, she shares photos of baby eels smoked over charcoal at the fabled Asador Etxebarri in northern Spain, succulent oysters from Bistrot de Cancale in French Brittany, and dispatches from explorations to Cancun, Mexico, an isle in the Coral Sea off Australia’s northern shore, and a more recent road trip across the southern regions of America. Be that as it may, Underwood doesn’t perceive herself as an it-girl — almost nothing is readily available about her on the web. She refrains from disseminating beauty advice or imparting lessons on lifestyle.
Wool and nylon dress, Rick Owens, choker, silver-plated brass, Maison
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