With 700 million euros invested in R&D and three to five new fragrance molecules launched each year, whether natural ingredients, synthetic molecules, or biotechnology-derived molecules, dsm-firmenich has made innovation a cornerstone of its strategy. We spoke to Amaury Roquette, President of Ingredients, Perfumery & Beauty, and Wessel-Jan Kos, Master Perfumer, on the occasion of the 2025 International Exhibition of raw materials for perfumery (SIMPPAR), held in early June in Paris.
Premium Beauty News – How is innovation in fragrance ingredients managed at dsm-firmenich?
Amaury Roquette – dsm-firmenich invests 700 million euros annually in research and development. This commitment reflects our belief that in perfumery, innovation is inseparable from creativity. The discovery of new molecules revolves around three pillars: naturals, synthetics, and biotechnology. We also aim to optimise manufacturing processes to align with performance and sustainability criteria.
Premium Beauty News – How do you approach the search for new synthetic molecules?
Amaury Roquette – We study around 2,000 molecules per year, of which only three to five are added to our portfolio. These remain exclusive to dsm-firmenich for ten to twenty years as captives before being released to the market for our clients. As an industry leader, we believe our responsibility is to harness innovation to drive excellence in the industry.
Premium Beauty News – What about natural ingredients?
Wessel-Jan Kos – dsm-firmenich recently unveiled its Firgood technology, which is unique in the industry. At the event, we’re presenting the Firgood coffee extract from Peru, with its highly realistic and captivating profile, which we’re releasing to the market this year. We extensively favour supercritical CO2 extraction (like the SFE rum extract we’re exhibiting at the show). These two technologies require no additional solvent. For Firgood extracts, the solvent is the water naturally present in the biomass, while for supercritical CO2 extraction, we use atmospheric CO2 that is heavily compressed. For the latter, beyond solid-liquid extractions, we’re the only ones to perform liquid-liquid extractions under co-current conditions, starting from an essence. This is, in a way, a double extraction, which results in a different and more potent olfactory profile.
Premium Beauty News – What role do biotechnology-derived ingredients play in your innovation strategy?
Amaury Roquette – The Group has been investing in biotechnology for nearly fifteen years, both in-house and through partnerships with several major players in the sector. One of the most significant examples is Clearwood, launched in 2014. This molecule, containing over 30% patchoulol, helps smooth out patchouli’s natural volatility, while offering a more stable alternative in times of tension (availability and price), on the raw material. It also offers environmental benefits, with a lower carbon footprint and a positive ethical impact. This year, for instance, we’re highlighting Clearwood Prisma, a purified version resulting from a heart fraction to eliminate its earthy aspects and obtain a linear, woody note with subtle amber undertones. This 100% renewable molecule, biotechnology-derived, and released to the market two years ago, requires up to five times less water and CO2 than a conventional ingredient.
We currently have around ten biotechnology-derived ingredients that are very popular with perfumers. We use sustainable sugar fermentation, bioconversion, and advanced distillation to create high-quality ingredients at affordable prices.
Premium Beauty News – What is your vision of innovation?
Amaury Roquette – Our innovation strategy is built on differentiation. The need for differentiation remains strong with trends in niche perfumery, exclusive collections from major houses, and haute parfumerie. This differentiation is partly achieved through the continuous development of signature ingredients, particularly captives, which allow us to make our formulas and creations unique. After ten to twenty years of exclusivity, we release these captives to the market, thereby developing the specialty ingredients of tomorrow. This dynamic creates value that we reinvest into research. It’s a virtuous business model.
Premium Beauty News – Do you also offer exclusive ingredients to certain brands?
Amaury Roquette – In a highly confidential manner, we sometimes develop custom natural ingredients for certain clients, but keeping a captive fully exclusive is generally not cost-effective, given the investments required for its development and industrialisation.
Premium Beauty News – What role does artificial intelligence play in innovation?
Amaury Roquette – It plays a role at every level. For ingredient creation, AI enables us to model molecular structures to predict their olfactory family even before synthesis. In production, AI optimises processes through the Continuous Manufacturing Optimization programme, which identifies “golden batches” with the most efficient yields. It’s a real competitive advantage, both in terms of costs and carbon footprint.
