The Belgian biotech newcomer showcased fresh findings regarding its proprietary depigmenting active, Tonasulike-D, during the IFSCC gathering and Cosmetic 360 events.
Previewed initially in 2024, Tonasulike-D [1] is reported by Kokuma to offer secure and noticeable decrease in hyperpigmentation while boosting skin’s glow across all assessed skin types.
This exclusive, AI-derived active utilizes a paired, cooperative mode of operation. It functions at the source to lessen melanin creation and further down the line to block melanin transmission. At the IFSCC 2025 Conference and the Cosmetic 360 exhibition, Kokuma shared updated clinical performance data displaying outcomes at a strength of merely 0.01%.
“By harnessing AI and biotech, we discovered a powerful new element that produces clinical effects safely, establishing updated benchmarks for depigmenting and brightening agents,” stated Yannick Quesnel, Ph.D., Chief Scientific Officer and Co-founder of Kokuma.
Performance established clinically
Both in vitro and ex vivo analyses have revealed that Tonasulike-D yields evident and quantifiable results — even at an extraordinarily minimal strength of 0.01% — in diminishing hyperpigmentation and illuminating the skin.
A 12-Week indiscriminate single-blind regulated study (60 participants, Skin Types III-V, ages: 30-75) has signaled pigmentation lessening and radiance enhancement by week 8 for all participants. The initial observable alterations surface at day 21, with ongoing enhancement through week 12.
Following 12 weeks, trials indicated a 17% decline in dark mark pigmentation joined by a substantial betterment in skin tone uniformity (ITA) in both Caucasian and Asian skin variants, as well as as much as a 24% surge in skin luminosity (ITA) on dark complexions.
Additionally, in vitro and ex vivo examinations have demonstrated a 86% drop in melanin manufacture (laboratory trial on human melanocytes) and a 45% weakening in melanin quantity (human skin segments).
Double function
Tonasulike-D was pinpointed utilizing Kokuma’s AI platform, implementing pharmaceutical-grade in-silico predictive instruments to recognize high-potential, earlier untapped biological objectives. By merging public and exclusive data integration, AI-centered forecasts (e.g., solubility, lipophilicity, skin seepage), mechanistic understanding, safety assessment and IP layout mapping, Kokuma’s specialists verified and authenticated their superior-performing molecule.
Tonasulike-D works through two joint mechanisms: it curtails melanin output by reducing the amounts of core enzymes implicated in melanogenesis, like tyrosinase, and it impedes melanin passage to the basal layers of the epidermis by adjusting the NF-κB signaling conduit—an indispensable controller of pigment relay from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
As per Kokuma, the coupling of these actions brightens the skin and present dark patches without aggravation, level of sensitivity, or jeopardizing skin well-being.
“Following three years of R&D, lab assessments, and clinical runs, we’re equipped to introduce Tonasulike-D to the marketplace commencing this autumn,” announced Alexandre Jouve, Pharm.D., CEO and Co-founder of Kokuma.
“Formulators are previously keen on its superior effectiveness at a reduced strength, which renders it well-matched with an extensive variety of arrangements—from facial serums to hand and body treatments. We’re cooperating closely with labels to adjust to their requirements,” appended Olivier Fontaine, Pharm.D., Board Member and Advisor.
