In a recent study, Pascale Brousse, founder of the Trend Sourcing agency and an expert in beauty and wellness market trends, and Françoise Rapp, a specialist of natural essences and olfaction, pooled expertise to point out the likely consequences of climate upheavals on the evolution of the perfume industry. These previously unasked questions are essential to anticipate the years to come.
In the first part of the study, the two consultants focused on a hazard that affects all industries dependent on plants: the deterioration of soil quality, and in particular of its microbiome. Sixty years of intensive use of pesticides contributed to eliminating the living organisms that made croplands rich and produce the better part of the nutrients needed for plants to flourish, protect and reproduce themselves.
“Living soil contains an incredible biodiversity composed of animals and microorganisms that are still little known. It is the synthesis of this ecosystem that provides plants with nutrients, aromas, minerals, and vitamins. And yet, in today’s world, it is estimated that more than half of soils are dead soils”, warns Pascale Brousse.
The alteration of the soil microbiome, and therefore of the plants that soils help grow, can actually have a direct impact on the quality of the natural raw materials that make a great perfume.
“When soil is suffering, the biochemical composition of plant essences may fluctuate”, explains Françoise Rapp.
She adds that leading players have already taken interest in this issue, as can be seen with Moët Hennessy in the field of wines and spirits: the company set up the World Living Soil congress held last October in the south of France.
“If a company like Moët Hennessy decided to create a biannual congress to talk about living soil and committed to turning to regenerative farming by 2030, it is because they know they will no longer produce quality champagne, cognac, and wine if nothing changes,” says Pascale Brousse.
“Breathing new life into these soils has become an injunction in our society, where people want to go natural, but are also faced with the issue of depleted natural raw materials,” adds Françoise Rapp.
Reviving the original role of perfume
The study also points at another impact, on the skin microbiome. The two experts highlight the fact that climate change will transform how consumers consider and experience perfume.
The skin microbiome balance depends on our internal balance, but also on extrinsic factors, i.e. the environment. As a matter of fact, rising temperatures and humidity can destabilise the microbiome and pH, which becomes more alkaline, increasing the risk of weakening the hydrolipid barrier, therefore making it more sensitive, in particular to alcohol-based perfumes.
In addition, according to Françoise Rapp, hot and damp climates make head notes more volatile and base notes more intense.
Ultimately, as the last witness to a worrying situation, climate change and its consequences on mental health cause many symptoms, including anxiety states and sleep disorders. The first solutions have emerged through perfume and the impact of smells on emotions.
“A silent revolution has started in the world of perfume, but it will go even further. Perfumes will increasingly take on a therapeutic, comforting dimension as fine fragrances, and in particular as home fragrances to help manage emotions and wellness on a daily basis,” promises Françoise Rapp.
“This neuro-sensory comfort dimension will be essential and take place in synaesthesia with the other senses, for example by associating perfume and music. It is crucial, in particular for the young generation focused on experiences. It is an opportunity to initiate all sorts of experiments and shape up tomorrow’s perfumes, in relation to climate change,” concludes Pascale Brousse on a positive note.
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This story was initially published in our January 2025 Fragrance Innovation special issue, read it here. |
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