The new Longscent technology developed by the fragrance house Expressions Parfumées limits the evaporation of ingredients to optimise all stages of the olfactory pyramid. The result is a fragrance that lasts longer and performs better over time while retaining its characteristic structure.
To meet the global demand for longer-lasting fragrances, the Grasse-based perfume house has developed an innovative solution to offer consumers a new fragrance experience.
“Consumers are increasingly demanding more intense and longer-lasting fragrances. The globalisation of the fragrance industry and the emergence of new markets, particularly in Asia, are sometimes leading to conflicting needs. In particular, Asian consumers appreciate the notion of freshness and crystalline fragrances, but they also want them to be long-lasting, which can be contradictory. Hence the idea of rethinking the perfume experience to meet consumers’ new expectations,” explains Marie-Eugénie Bouge, Marketing and Communications Director at Expressions Parfumées.
Limiting the volatility of fragrance ingredients
The technical challenge was to limit the volatility of the raw materials at the different stages of the olfactory pyramid, and thus the evolution of the fragrance over time.
“We started from the observation that the top and base notes, which are important for consumers’ first impressions of fragrances, are also the ones that last the least and are the most volatile. The idea was to maintain this emotion and optimise each stage of the olfactory pyramid by increasing its duration and intensity,” explains Jennifer Buzzi, Head of Development and Innovation.
Thanks to this technology, which was patented in July 2024, it is now possible to increase the intensity by up to 30% at different stages of evaporation, depending on the fragrance profile: for example, tests have shown that citrus notes can be perceived for several hours and base notes for more than 72 hours.
Film-forming agents
Longscent is based on the selection of several synthetic and natural raw materials with film-forming properties. “These form a film on the skin or fabric, a kind of shield that limits the evaporation of the fragrances without trapping the top notes,” adds Jennifer Buzzi.
This work was carried out in collaboration with the company’s perfumers, who were challenged to use this technology to anticipate new evaporation phases compared to traditional phases at different development stages.
“The work carried out by the perfumers has shown that this technology also makes it possible to add sophistication to fragrances in all families of accords. Persistence in citrus or floral notes, where this is difficult to achieve, and sophistication in woody/amber families, for example, where their power often evens out the accords,” adds Marie-Eugénie Bouge.
As well as being long-lasting and intense over time, Longscent also offers consumers a new guarantee of continuity as they discover the fragrance. The olfactory structure they smell when they try it at the POS will retain its identity over time.
“Brands are interested in offering a new consumer experience. With this technology, consumers will discover a new approach,” confirms Marie-Eugénie Bouge.
The technology will be launched in Europe this year and is already attracting a lot of attention in Asia and the Middle East.
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This story was initially published in our January 2025 Fragrance Innovation special issue, read it in its entirety here. |
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