At the Cosmetic 360 trade show in Paris, the Belgium-headquartered start-up presented two new active ingredients dedicated to skin tone. The innovation modulates skin pigmentation without sun exposure. The biotech ingredients were isolated from botanicals using artificial intelligence.
After two years of intensive research and development, Kokuma is launching its first two cosmetic active ingredients. Officially launched at the Cosmetic 360 trade show on October 16 and 17 in Paris, the first two ingredients resulting from this scientific work focus on the modulation of skin pigmentation.
A depigmenting molecule of natural origin
Dubbed TONASULIKE-D, the first one is a patented depigmenting active ingredient derived from a natural molecule isolated using AI in a traditional Chinese medicinal product. In-vivo tests showed a reduction in melanin production of up to 86%.
“The mechanisms are very different from currently existing active ingredients and the intensity of the lightening effect is related to the dose applied,” Kokuma CEO and co-founder, Alexandre Jouve, told Premium Beauty News. “It is an interesting and safe alternative to existing molecules.”
Ex vivo tests on human explants have also shown the effectiveness of the new active ingredient.
The first results of in vivo testing show that TONASULIKE-D lightens the appearance of age and pigmented spots, ensuring “a smooth, consistent skin tone.” [1]
A UV-free melanin enhancer
The second patented active ingredient, TONASULIKE-P, is a clinically validated UV-free melanin booster. In ex-vivo tests the active ingredient doubles melanin’s natural production, providing a long-lasting glow. . Enough to set a new market standard!
“It is not a traditional self-tanner that will colour the surface of the skin. With TONASULIKE-P, there is immediate effect but a natural tan is obtained in just 20 days without UV”, highlighted Yannick Quesnel, Chief Scientific Officer & co-founder of Kokuma. “The tan lasts as long as you continue to apply it.”
TONASULIKE-P is a molecule derived from a plant extract that has been modified to be potentiated. It can be produced by chemical synthesis or biochemical fermentation, specifies the Kokuma team.
Innovation pipeline
Both ingredients come in powder form that can be stored at room temperature.
Note that Kokuma’s innovation does not stop at these two new features. The company promises further additions to its portfolio with a robust pipeline of future ingredients targeting anti-aging and other skincare advances.
Backed by combined expertise in cosmetics, medtech, and pharma, the experts of the Belgian start-up aim to provide cosmetic brands and formulators cutting-edge solutions for the skin. Using AI-driven research, Kokuma performs predictive testing and data modelling of thousands of compounds.
