Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has developed a new surfactant-free oil-in-water emulsifier. Derived from a patented technology based on quinoa starch, the new ingredient enhances the sensory attributes of formulas, with a proven effect to create positive emotions.
Based on Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ patented quinoa starch technology, Pickmulse is a surfactant-free emulsifier that offers a powdery-soft touch and allows the development of pearly white formulas with high-skin tolerance. Pickmulse was designed to preserve skin balance while maintaining a high level of sensory quality, compared to traditional emulsifiers. It addresses the concerns of consumers increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and the importance of maintaining skin microbiota.
Pickering emulsions with proven sensory benefits
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics says that thanks to the small size of quinoa starch particles, Pickmulse allows easy formulation of Pickering emulsions [1] with an high sensory skin feel.
Scientific studies, including functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements, have shown this improved tactile experience stimulates wellbeing and reward areas in the brain. These wellbeing benefits were additionally confirmed through panelist questionnaires.
Optimized ingredient stability
Quinoa starch additionally has unique swelling properties that facilitate the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an encapsulation system, Pickmulse is able to increase the stability of sensitive ingredients and enhances the sensory feel of ingredients in the formulation.
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Pickmulse thus offers a cost-effective and user-friendly solution for in-house encapsulation exhibiting a high loading capacity (up to 25%) and able to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.
When emulsified with 20% oil, Pickmulse can furthermore be used to create varied textures from sprays to supple creams.
Responsibly sourced
Pickmulse is derived from quinoa, a nutrient-rich grain cultivated for centuries in Latin America.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant responsibly sources organic quinoa from fields in Bolivia that have been cultivated for extended periods. The company collaborates with the Pro Inpa Foundation to foster a more resilient local economy.
“Pickmulse offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics that we’ve designed to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” says Isabelle Lacasse, Head Global Marketing, Product Line Management & Formulation Lucas Meyer Cosmetics at Clariant. “This next-generation of 2-in-1 product is a balance of formulation needs as well as skin health and feel.”
