Innovative and disruptive, K-beauty, (for Korean beauty), has revolutionised beauty standards with new gestures, light textures, affordable formulas, and a ten-step ritual (layering) guaranteeing the famous Korean glow, a unique luminous complexion. This approach, which meets the desire to “take time for oneself” – a need that became more pregnant during the pandemic – has become a reference point for consumers and a source of inspiration for Western brands. In 2022, South Korea became the world’s 4th largest exporter of cosmetics, behind France and the United States, on a par with Germany and in front of Italy [1].
South Korean culture started to become increasingly visible in the late 1990s, initially through TV serials and K-pop music. The Hallyu (or Korean wave) hit China first, spread to Japan, and then gradually reached the United States and Europe. The first Korean cosmetics, including the famous BB Creams, began to make a name for themselves outside Asia in the early 2000s.
“In 2011, Garnier launched its first BB Cream, which marked the beginning of Korean beauty’s influence on the development of Western brands. CC and DD Creams were to follow,” explains Florence Bernardin, founder, and Managing Director of the Asia Cosme Lab agency. This trend continued with the launch of cushion foundations, which met with more moderate success in France. Korean brands such as Laneige and Dr. Jart+ have now established a long-term presence at Sephora, moving from the retail store’s Korean Corner to standard shelves.
Today, the second surge in popularity of K-beauty is driven by skincare and enhanced by the promotion of Korean routine on social networks, particularly TikTok, where it is shared by influencers from all over the world. “The Korean government has invested heavily in promoting Korean culture, and K-beauty in particular, outside its borders,” explains Lilin Yang, founder of MiiN Cosmetics, a European network of thirty specialist boutiques. The company is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year along with the opening of its first outlet in France.
South Korea is now a major cosmetics exporter, so much so that Japan now imports more Korean cosmetics than French ones, something never seen before, according to Florence Bernardin.
Fun and accessible preventive beauty
The notion of routine goes hand in hand with the K-beauty concept based on layering. This method consists of superimposing on the face, in ten steps, several different skin care products to leave the skin looking hydrated, radiant, and healthy. “What I find really interesting about this approach is that it aims to rebalance and hydrate the skin. The approach is preventive rather than curative, which is still, too often, not the case in the Western world,” explains Emma Gatineau, founder of Maison Kōsane, a marketplace specialising in Korean and Japanese cosmetics, which offers personalised routines based on a skin diagnosis.
K-beauty is a fun and attractive beauty concept, with a constant stream of innovative beauty gestures. It appeals to a connected target group, aged between 18 and 35, and even older. And it is undeniably inspiring Western beauty brands.
‘’Western consumers are very fond of sheet masks; today, they are everywhere and no longer limited to Korean brands,‘’ says Anne Luong, founder of Korean Cosmetics, a network of three Parisian boutiques specialising in Korean cosmetics. “At Oh My Cream, we decided last June to propose a selection of three Korean sheet masks, a field where Korean brands excel. We selected three masks from the brands Abib, Beauty of Joseon and Torriden, which I discovered on a trip to Seoul,” adds Fanny Morel, Communications Director at Oh My Cream.
The daily sunscreen, a staple of the Korean skincare routine, has been very popular in France for the last two years. “We launched the Beauty of Joseon sun cream at the same time as our sheet masks. In July, it was one of Oh My Cream’s top two best-sellers, with 297 units sold per week, a figure on a par with our Oh My Cream Skincare plumping cream, one of our best-sellers“, continues, delighted, Fanny Morel.
“Toners are also a staple of Korean beauty. For some time now, we have been witnessing the arrival of toner pads: cotton pads soaked in lotion that come in a box. At Maison Kōsane, they are already a big hit,” explains Emma Gatineau.
K-beauty is also characterised by the use of specific ingredients such as Centella asiatica, tea tree, bakuchiol, collagen and niacinamide. In Korea, consumers are very well informed about ingredients, a trend that is also developing in Europe, particularly in France, where people are increasingly interested in the composition of products. “Yet, the success of K-beauty in Western markets is mainly due to its innovative textures, minimalist packaging and affordable prices,” explains Florence Bernardin.
Pharmacies, retail, beauty salons
In France, pharmacies are emerging as a key channel for Korean cosmetics. Brands such as Torriden, which officially launched its products in France on 14 October, are banking on pharmacies and beauty salons to expand.
Pharmacie Lariboisière, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, has made these products one of its specialities. By establishing themselves in this channel, K-beauty brands are positioning themselves alongside major dermocosmetics brands, placing them definitely in the world of trusted skincare products.
Meanwhile, following the success of its sheet masks, retailer Oh My Cream will be introducing two new skincare ranges from the Torriden brand in February 2025.
Maison Kōsane, for its part, has opened a Korean pop-up corner at Le Bon Marché from 25 October to 31 December, featuring a selection of products. “This collaboration raises awareness of Korean layering while inviting people to try out the products,” explains Emma Gatineau. SeeMy Cosmetics and Maison Kōsane also offered visitors, as part of this operation, an immersive experience based on Korean face-lift at the Institut du Bon Marché from 4 to 10 November.
Market players have indeed been quick to identify another essential aspect of Korean beauty routine: salon treatments. In the near future, the founders of Korean Cosmetics and MiiN Cosmetics intend to offer skincare protocols in their future French outlets, as they already do in their two MiiN Cosmetics flagships in Madrid and Barcelona, Spain. “The purchasing power of French consumers is higher than that of Spaniards, which is why I think that a MiiN Cosmetics flagship in Paris, with treatment rooms, could be a big hit. In Barcelona and Madrid, the loyalty rate is high, because results after treatment are there for all to see, and we know today that this is one of the concerns of customers who use salon treatments,” explains Lilin Yang. The founder of MiiN Cosmetics told us that she was currently looking for premises in the Marais district for the opening of a second shop in Paris. Her aim is to also open shops outside Paris very soon.
A key driver in the development of Korean cosmetics, innovation is and remains an essential factor in winning over consumers.
Florence Bernardin also noticed that people with darker skin are increasingly attracted to Korean cosmetics. This large consumer base in France and the United States could well open the way for K-beauty brands to a market that is still under-exploited, and demonstrate their ability to meet the needs of all skin types.
Emma Gatineau also sees growth potential for Korean hair care products, which are still not very widespread in Europe and North America. “At Maison Kōsane, our ambition is to offer a comprehensive selection of Korean cosmetics, by introducing first, hair care products to our online offering, before branching out into make-up at a later stage,” she explains.
Finally, Lilin Yang, who is always on the lookout for emerging trends, noticed a boom in hydrogel masks in South Korea. These “sleeping masks 2.0” could well represent a new stage in innovation, further strengthening the appeal of this dynamic and constantly evolving cosmetics trend.
