Organised, since last year, at the Milan Convention Center, the Esxence trade show has become a key event for the independent perfume industry in Europe with, this year, nearly 300 brands and 10,300 visitors (professionals and perfume lovers). Premium Beauty News made the trip to Milan to identify the main trends in niche perfumery.
Since the health crisis, floral notes are all the rage. Brands are banking on their cheerful tones to make us see life in pink. White flowers in particular, whose sunny glow is an antidote to moroseness. A trend that is still very much in vogue, with many launches highlighting jasmine at the show. Like Jasmin de Toscane, signed by Jean-Christophe Hérault for Jacques Fath, with rounded, sensual, almondy notes and a twist of hazelnut. Jasmine is also showcased at The Different Company, in a new perfume whose name has yet to be revealed, announced as a tribute to this tiny white flower, whose scent becomes more intoxicating as night falls. White flowers (ylang-ylang, jasmine) also outline the gardenia accord in Blanc de Chine, signed by Patrice Revillard for Parfumeurs du Monde, to be released in the coming months.
With their comforting whiff, trails with musky, sandalwood and milky notes, that emerged after the health crisis, are still very popular. Like the delicate and airy Musc Pallas, the new Jovoy, which takes shape amidst the powdery softness of ambrette and iris and the roundness of tonka bean, on a background of vaporous musk. Creamy, milky nuances, which have become inevitable, can be found as a thread in many launches, texturing a coffee accord (Fanfarone Italiano, by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni for State of Mind), or outlining coconut facets (Un été, by Meabh McCurtin for the Obvious brand). They also blend with matcha accords and other tea notes to conjure up chai latte effects.
Tea accords seem to be an emerging trend, reflecting both a quest for well-being and the growth of the Asian market. The matcha accord is at the heart of Un été for Obvious. Isabelle Larignon’s Milky Dragon is infused with Oolong tea, combined with milky, fruity and spicy notes. At Olfactive Studio, Lapsang Souchong tea is featured in the Sepia collection with Smoky Soul. Signed by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the juice is enhanced by osmanthus, jasmine sambac, patchouli and seaweed absolute.
Osmanthus also made its presence felt at the show. In addition to Smoky Soul, this tiny Chinese flower with apricot and leathery accents, inspired Osmanthe Liu Yuan, by Le Jardin Retrouvé. A delicate composition, where the flower’s fruity tones are enhanced by mandarin, softened by iris, on a base of suede and musk. Another ingredient that reflects the interest of niche perfumery towards China.
In recent years, gourmand notes have evolved towards less overtly “sweet” tasty grounds. Still very much in vogue, coffee accords take on an unctuous appearance, textured with amber and liqueur-like notes at State Of Mind with Fanfarone Italiano. For Nicolaï, coffee embraces woody, ambery and dry tones in an equally dense, but darker tone, with Caravansérail Intense. Perfumers also continue to explore new tasty accords around cereals, rice, or peanuts. Like Frapin’s brand new Attendre et Espérer, where vetiver meets peanut notes, refreshed with ginger, to blow hot and cold. Another example is Zazen by Robert Piguet, a highly faceted creation based on a “rice steam” accord.
Overall, the launches spotted since last year at Esxence tend to be less focused, and polarising, to adopt a more comfortable feel-good register. The brands’ origins are also diversifying with creations from Singapore, Ukraine, Romania, Croatia, Japan…
Finally, it should be noted that while ecological issues are still very much present, new labels are trying to establish their identity with a sustainable approach. One example is Nissaba, created by Sébastien Tissot, who worked for a long time with Dominique Roques for the responsible sourcing of natural ingredients at Firmenich. The brand is very much involved in supporting young people from perfume-producing communities. It also promotes their know-how by giving pride of place in its juices, to the olfactory terroirs of the countries that produce perfume ingredients. Each of the brand’s perfumes is composed of the iconic ingredients of a region, to recreate its olfactory atmosphere. Indeed, an original brief for perfumers.
Like the global perfume market, the world of niche perfumery continues to open up and diversify. See you next year at Esxence.
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