After the fall-winter 2026/2027 shows, it became obvious: fashion has split into two camps. On the one hand, there is minimalism, clean and restrained, where the main thing is laconic sexuality. On the other, there is maximalism, which refuses to limit itself and celebrates excess in everything. If not long ago it seemed that the principle of “less is better” had finally won, today the answer sounds different: more is much more interesting. This shift is especially noticeable in jewelry. If last year the fashion agenda was dictated by delicate chains with pendants, today everything is changing radically. Minimalist jewelry is taking a back seat, giving way to volume, shape and expressiveness.
Celine
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The protagonist of the new season is the XXL necklace. Massive, sculptural, sometimes almost architectural, it is no longer just an addition to the look – it is the look. In the Celine collection, Michael Ryder presented long necklaces with eclectic pendants – from gold shells to crystals, turning them into objects that you want to look at. For Valentino, Alessandro Michele relied on hyperbolized pearls and metal chains, reinforcing his signature love of theatricality and decoration.
Valentino
Givenchy
Other brands are only reinforcing this trend. Chopova Lowena ironically works with form, creating chokers made of pearls, crystals and chains, while at Louis Vuitton, jewelry resembles elements of medieval armor. At Givenchy, under the direction of Sarah Burton, massive chains of large leather rings are perceived almost as sculptural objects.
This is the new logic of fashion: jewelry no longer has to be “neat”. It has to be noticeable, tangible, even daring. The XXL necklace has become the main fashion statement of the season, capable of transforming even the simplest basic item into a complete look.
