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On the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, Mathieu Blazy, who continues to build a new visual language for the French brand, presented his second seasonal collection for Chanel. His new work became a deep exploration of feminine nature through the metaphor of the metamorphosis from caterpillar to butterfly.
The description of the Chanel autumn-winter 2026/27 collection began with a quote from the founder of the House, Gabrielle Chanel, who once said: “Fashion is both a caterpillar and a butterfly. Be a caterpillar by day and a butterfly by night. There is nothing more comfortable than a caterpillar and nothing more made for love than a butterfly. We need dresses that crawl and dresses that fly. A butterfly does not go to the market and a caterpillar does not go to the ball.” This idea of duality found its echo in the new collection of Blasi, who throughout the show maintains a continuous dialogue with Madame Chanel, honoring her ability to elevate the functional to the level of high fashion. At one time, she changed the context of women's clothing, borrowing elements of the men's wardrobe and work uniforms, but never forgetting the seductive pleasure of transformation and fantasy.
The collection moves through time, layering silhouettes from different eras, from the relaxed twenties and thirties to the structured fifties and sixties, returning to the modern twenties. The classic Chanel suit remains the central element of this time journey, becoming a canvas for experimentation: from traditional tweed and ribbed knitwear to innovative textures using silicone, lurex and synthetic fibers.
When daytime functionality gives way to nighttime magic, the image of the Papillon de nuit emerges – a nocturnal butterfly that is impossible to take your eyes off. This is embodied in dynamic coats and dresses that seem to fly, emphasizing the silhouette and giving a feeling of weightlessness. Accessories complete this dialogue between the real and the fictional: enamel and resin jewelry recalls the palette of the Impressionists, and soft pastel boots create a “second skin” effect.
“Chanel is a paradox. Chanel is a function and a fiction. The Chanel woman is sensible and seductive. It is day and night. She embodies the freedom to choose between a caterpillar and a butterfly at any moment. I strive to create a canvas for women so that they can be unconditionally who they are and who they want to be today,” Blasi sums up the new collection. Read a large interview with the designer on the website.