“Less me, more us”: Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut collection for Fendi

Bags were the undisputed protagonists at Fendi's Fall/Winter 2026/2027 show during Milan Fashion Week. The show was the first collection for the Italian house under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, who set a clear direction – towards sisterhood and togetherness.

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The catwalk featured an inscription that summed up the meaning of the collection: Meno io, più noi – “Less me, more we.” This motto reflects both Chiuri’s creative method and the history of the brand itself – five sisters, daughters of the house’s founders: Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda. “They were true visionaries,” the designer noted on the eve of the show, emphasizing the importance of teamwork. The symbol of this idea was a scarf-ribbon with the inscription 5 SISTERS, whose design resembled the attributes of sports fans – a simple but strong sign of unity.

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Talking about Fendi means talking about accessories. In the new collection, bags became the main focus and sometimes appeared in pairs. Among the models were the reinterpreted Fendi Baguette: soft and structured, with animalistic prints or in decorated, almost jewel-like versions. They were joined by new logo tote bags and more rock-n-roll versions in leather with fringes and accent zippers. Some models were complemented by fur covers – a functional element traditionally used in cold regions to protect delicate skin from frost and moisture.

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The collection features femininity that enters into a dialogue with men's wardrobe. Some of the looks are offered for both her and him – in particular, dark suits combined with a blue shirt. Other outfits differed only in minor details, emphasizing the idea of a shared wardrobe and shared qualities.

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The collars were an homage to Karl Lagerfeld's style, which has long shaped the aesthetic of the house, as were the peep toe sandals paired with socks – another nod to archival heritage.

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Lace, a signature element of Chiuri's aesthetic, reappeared on the catwalk, creating a play of translucency. As the house emphasized, “in a world where bodily impulses are increasingly less heard, the wardrobe becomes the service of the body's desires.” Fashion here appears as the antithesis of modern individualism – and a way to return to community.

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Fendi has also developed this idea in collaboration with artists SAGG Napoli and Mirella Bentivoglio. SAGG Napoli has created a series of personal and collective principles, including Radicata ma non bloccata (“Rooted but not blocked”) and Presente ma non dipendente (“Present but not dependent”), which describe belonging as a dynamic process. The collaboration with Bentivoglio's archive inspired the creation of a limited jewelry collection, a reinterpretation of 1970s designs in dialogue with the Fendi archives.

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According to Vogue.it.

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