The men's collections of the autumn-winter 2026/2027 season have become some of the most discussed in recent years. The reason is simple: designers offered a new look at luxury, texture and traces of time in clothing. The focus was on the themes of aging fabric, memory and even mold as a metaphor. High fashion no longer strives for sterility and perfection. It speaks of life, experience and the history of things.
Prada Menswear fall-winter 2026/2027
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Milan Men's Fashion Week attracted the attention of celebrities and the media. Colman Domingo, Tom Hiddleston and Henry Golding appeared at the Ralph Lauren show, which became the most popular this season. Jack O'Connell visited the Armani show. Louis Partridge, Nicholas Hoult and Damson Idris were guests at Prada. And it was the Prada Menswear collection autumn-winter 2026/2027 that caused the most discussion within the framework of men's fashion autumn/winter 2026.
Prada Menswear fall-winter 2026/2027
Prada Menswear fall-winter 2026/2027
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered an unconventional approach in the new season. The shirts in the collection appeared aged. The fabric had stains and stains that resembled mold spores. The Prada Fondazione space was designed to recreate the atmosphere of an old interior. Decorative panels and muted lighting enhanced the restrained, gloomy mood. Miuccia Prada emphasized that the collection was dedicated to finding meaning in a time of change. The narrow-cut coat, thin vests and sailor hats gave the impression of things from the past, as if they had already lived their own history. Folds and creases became part of the aesthetics. In men's fashion, clothes now have character – they do not strive for flawless novelty, but hint at lived experience.
Dior Men
Dior Men
Jonathan Anderson also turned to history for his Dior Men Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection. He combined Paul Poiret's Belle Époque silhouettes with 1940s houndstooth jackets and 1960s-style cuts. Parkas, flannel shirts and cargo pants in the style of musician Mk.gee were added. Yellow wigs were reminiscent of Pam Hogg's stage image. With this selection of references, Anderson emphasized that fashion should showcase interesting ideas, rather than stereotype the same silhouettes.
Louis Vuitton fall-winter 2026/2027
Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton presented a technological vision of menswear. Jackets were transformed into water-repellent blousons. Checked suits were made of light-reflecting materials. Louis Vuitton showed that menswear can combine classic cuts and modern technology. However, along with technology, the theme of imperfection is becoming increasingly important.
Dries Van Noten fall-winter 2026/2027
Dries Van Noten's autumn-winter 2026/2027 collection featured a floral jacquard parka, turned inside out and seemingly sewn from a multitude of different pieces of fabric. The lining was brightly colored. Creative director Julian Klausner noted that the collection consists of items that seem to have been passed down from previous generations.
Veronique Nischanyan's final collection for Hermès also became part of the menswear debate. It featured jumpsuits from 1991 and suede aviator jackets from 2001. Archive pieces were seamlessly blended with modern pieces, suggesting that it was time to get things off the shelves that had been sitting idle for years and hadn't been worn in years.
Hermès fall-winter 2026/2027
Willy Chavarria held a large-scale show at the Dojo de Paris with 85 models and six musicians, dedicating it to themes of humanity and support. The Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show featured Michel Polnareff's Love Me, Please Love Me, while men in hockey masks moved through the space of Black Hole. Men's fashion responds to a tense global context, speaking of fear, memory and the need for intimacy. Simon Porte Jacquemus invited his grandmother Liliane to become an ambassador for the brand before the show at the Musée National Picasso, emphasizing the importance of family ties and memory.
Men's fashion for the autumn-winter 2026/2027 season shows a clear trend: luxury is no longer reduced to visual perfection. It means depth, texture and history. Mold at Prada becomes a symbol of embracing time. Beauty can be complex and unobvious, with traces of life – this is what makes the season one of the most important in modern men's fashion.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall-Winter 2026/2027
Based on material from vogue.co.uk