On April 28, the French brand Chanel opened the new season of cruise shows in a big way — Mathieu Blazy presented his first Chanel Cruise collection in Biarritz. We tell you what makes this show special.
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Why Biarritz became a legendary city for Madame Coco
Biarritz is a special city in the biography of Coco Chanel and her House. It was here, back in 1915, that the first Chanel couture store appeared. During the First World War, Biarritz, the European surfing capital, became a refuge for the émigré intelligentsia fleeing Paris. Then, 111 years ago, Chanel won the hearts of wealthy Frenchmen who came to the resort town on the Atlantic coast. In the teaser for the collection, the brand presented a maritime story inspired by shells and mermaids – an allusion to the resort town where Coco herself loved to relax with her lover Arthur “Boy” Capel.
Chanel Cruise 2026/27
On a beige, sand-like carpet in a historic casino on the Atlantic coast, the cruise collection turned the Chanel world upside down with its incredible fantasy. The show opened with a low-waisted dress with a deep V-neck, which was complemented by massive red shell earrings. The homage to maritime history was continued with cropped jackets, hats and a dress resembling red seaweed. A light silk dress with ties and a pair of shoes in hand – this is how the Chanel heroine begins her beach season.
The silhouettes were relaxed, but with detailed accessories that referred to the marine theme: embroidered fish, starfish, shells, seahorses and algae of different colors – Blasi was really inspired by Biarritz, which he visited with his family as a child. The collection features elements that are iconic for the Belgian: skirts with ruffles, low waists, work with tweed in different structures and variations. To this collection, the brand's creative team added a reinterpreted CC logo – it turned into a graphic element, sometimes even unrecognizable.
Special attention should be paid to cruise items: the collection includes 1920s-style bodysuits, tie-up skirts and tops, and voluminous beach dresses made of lightweight fabric. They seem to refer to the postcards we send ourselves from the sea and then receive at home. Mathieu Blasi also paid great attention to headwear – the brightest ones resemble swimming caps. With logos, burgundy, orange in the form of a seahorse – the creative variety is more reminiscent of Picasso's works, which the creative director of the House had on his moodboard for the collection. By the way, Coco Chanel herself was inspired by him.
Collection accessories
Mathieu Blasi is known for his high attention to detail: in his first collection he brought back golden ears of wheat as a symbol of prosperity: then they appeared on dresses and coats. Later, in New York, he presented allusions to symbols of a city in constant motion: Jackie O' Kennedy, skyscrapers and American films of the 1930s. In Biarritz, we are presented with an allusion to the marine world, as if from a Disney cartoon.
Bracelets in the form of starfish, clutch bags resembling huge shells and earrings in the same colors. Maxi bags in green, yellow, blue tones – the palette is incredibly bright. Special attention is paid to illusory fish and mermaids, whose fins and scales are fabulously woven into the structure of fabrics and accessories.
The footwear, as always, has its own special line: the collection features lace-up pairs that have only the heel – the rest of the foot is bare. The collection also includes the already iconic shoes with a square contrasting toe, 1920s-style shoes worn by Coco herself, updated variations of beach sandals and mules.
A fairy tale story with Chanel
The new Chanel Cruise 2026/27 collection is reminiscent of a fairy-tale aquarium from our childhood cartoons, where a goldfish is ready not only to fulfill your three wishes, but also invites you to plunge into its fairy-tale world, filled with beauty and dreams. Mathieu Blasi offers a relaxed but juicy story where every woman, if not a mermaid, is then a fabulous sea heroine. She wears massive earrings or a bag in the shape of a shell, complements it with a jacket with fancy blue scales, and mixes it with contrasting mules on small heels. Chanel's new heroine is a bold and relaxed woman, for whom every day is filled with fantasies in the smallest details. And we love her for it.
Text: Vova Motrychuk