We all know about the existence of peptides, which require patience and time. You obediently apply creams with them in the morning and evening, wait a week, then another… The result will come, but not everyone has enough patience, I don't judge, informs Ukr.Media.
It’s the same with retinol, but here you can go overboard and choose a high concentration to make your skin peel and see this active ingredient at work. You shouldn’t do that, especially in winter. “Retinol steps” and a gradual increase in retinol concentration are actually a much longer process than messing around with peptides.
Those who need a faster effect should look at acids. And not all of them, but those that can work effectively on the skin without causing severe irritation.
Which acids can transform the skin without irritation?
Everyone has heard about AHA acids and their wonderful exfoliating effect. Renewed skin looks healthier, with an even tone, without comedones, and the relief is smoothed (pores visually appear smaller and return to their normal state because they are free of dirt and sebum that stretches them).
It sounds great, but AHA acids are not for everyone. For example, people don't like the fact that they accelerate the maturation of acne that was preparing to come out at one time (purging). This effect (by the way, quite useful) is mistakenly considered an allergy. But there are also cases of allergies.
Chemists found a way out and began adding hydroxyl groups to acids so that the molecule would be larger and not penetrate deeply into the skin, but at the same time perform its main function – skin renewal.
One of these acids is gluconolactone (PHA acid). Many people like products with it because it has 5 hydroxyl groups, so it does not penetrate deep into the skin and works delicately. It accelerates skin renewal, without irritation, and additionally moisturizes it.
But there is a nuance! Cunning cosmetics manufacturers put gluconolactone on the label, and in the composition it is listed almost in the last place. In such cases, gluconolactone is simply part of the preservative complex, it will not work with the skin.
Therefore, it is important that gluconolactone is in 2-4th place in the composition, and its working concentration is from 2% and above. Suitable for dry and sensitive skin.
The second time-tested acid that delicately renews the skin is lactic acid. It is part of our NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), it exfoliates imperceptibly. When it comes to toners and serums, and not highly concentrated peels, it does not need to be washed off. It is loved by those with dehydrated skin, because of all the acids it moisturizes the best.
Another great option if you're worried about irritation is mandelic acid. It has a large molecule that penetrates the skin slowly and gently. Like salicylic acid, it's fat-soluble: it's great at cleansing pores, acting as an antiseptic, and fighting pigmentation.
The third group of acids is needed to work with pores. Classic salicylic acid is effective, but can be drying, and it is generally contraindicated for people with aspirin allergies. If you need a milder effect, use its “relatives”: LHA acids or betaine salicylate. They work superficially, do not penetrate deeply, but are excellent at dissolving sebaceous plugs.
And if your problem is redness or rosacea, azelaic acid, which relieves inflammation and soothes the skin, would be an ideal choice.
And remember the main safety rules: introduce acids gradually (2-3 times a week), do not combine them with retinol in the same procedure, and be sure to restore the skin with moisturizers.
And most importantly: any acid makes the skin photosensitive, so using SPF is a must, otherwise you will get pigmentation instead of beautiful skin.
This article is for informational purposes only. Before using active ingredients, consult a dermatologist or cosmetologist!
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