The 14th edition of Esxence, held from 6 to 9 March 2024 in Milan, Italy, welcomed 360 brands from 30 different countries. The event, which has grown steadily since 2009, attracted more than 12,000 visitors, compared to 10.300 last year. A real playground for exchanges and discoveries, Esxence is also a perfect opportunity to review the trends that are driving niche perfumery.
The explosion of white flowers
White flowers were in full bloom at this 2024 edition of Esxence. The trend blossomed at the end of the health crisis and reached its peak this year. Tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom… If we had to choose just one bouquet of white flowers, it would be Un Bel Amour d’Été by Parfum d’Empire. A hymn to carefreeness, bursting with gardenia, magnolia and champaca, created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, with this well-known material, qualitative and carnal signature.
Towards new tasty horizons
Gourmandise finds new inspiration. Moving away from praline and caramel notes, the gourmet palette is exploring other olfactory territories. Like the popcorn note, somewhere between peanut and caramel, in God Bless Cola, the Versatile brand’s latest addition. The gourmand style is also evolving, with creamy effects recalling the texture of a pastry in the mouth. Nicolaï’s three new creations are a good illustration of this. Pavlova, Saint-Honoré, and Macaron Bourbon are three fragrances inspired by desserts, whose mellow texture is tantalisingly realistic.
More subtle fruity accords
This 14th edition of Esxence also gave pride of place to fruity notes: banana, passion fruit, pear, peach… Beyond their presence, it is how the note is treated that attracts attention. The fruity accords are more refined, with a more subtle, naturalist style. Of particular note is the beautiful, velvety peach-skin effect of Rue de la Paix, a floral bouquet celebrating 100 years of the Isabey brand.
Scents with a comforting charm
While over the last two years, sandalwood was the dominant scent, since last year it has been replaced by vanilla, a new comforting ingredient. Among the pods that spread their bewitching, regressive notes in the aisles of the show were Orchid K by Ella K. A vanilla with powdery accents, enhanced by a hint of incense, by Sonia Constant. In the same gentle vein, musks are still very much in evidence, prized for their intimate sensuality. Like the latest launch of L’Orchestre Parfum, Mono Cachemire, by Nathalie Feisthauer. An airy, enveloping veil, imagined as a second skin.
Green notes add a refreshing touch to compositions
Although not dominant, green facets were used in many combinations. They give formulas a more natural touch or revamp a classic theme. The best example is undoubtedly Cèdre Figalia by Atelier Materi. A fig, green, woody accord, in which perfumer Céline Perdriel chiselled a crumpled fig leaf effect, using spinach absolute.
All in all, this 14th edition gave pride of place to a joyful, hedonistic niche perfumery. This cheerfulness drew on white floral notes, fruit, and gourmandise. This atmosphere can also be seen in the design of the stands, which were extremely colourful this year. Rather than being seductive, the new products are part of a quest for well-being and inner balance. Much like the many smaller brands that populated the show, all of them pursuing a soothing approach.
Portfolio
