The days of thin lips are over: the so-called “Generation Z look” is increasingly appearing on red carpets and Instagram feeds. This is a fashionable lip and facial expression that creates the illusion of fuller, “puffed” lips without injections. A slightly pressed upper lip, a slightly protruding lower lip, a relaxed jaw and a distant gaze – this thoughtfully careless expression has become the new aesthetic code of the generation. Lily-Rose Depp, Rachel Sennott and Lena Simone have made it their calling card.
However, behind this apparent ease lies a very specific makeup algorithm for applying products. The “Generation Z look” actually brings back to life an old technique – lip contouring with a slight departure from the natural line, which has long been associated with the excesses of the 1990s.
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“Generation Z Expression”, or the Art of Lip Volume Without Injections
Although the trend starts with a characteristic facial expression — a kind of “cold detachment” (a descendant of the once fashionable “duck expression” of the 2010s), its secret lies in the carefully executed lip contour. The lips look full, juicy, naturally defined — without any injections. Just a lip liner and the right technique. This is what makeup artist Nolven Kenten shares, offering a solution for those with thin lips.
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The 5-Step Technique from Nolven Kenten
1. Blur the natural contour
Apply a little foundation or concealer along the lip contour to soften the natural line. This is the basis for the volume effect.
2. Draw a new contour just above the natural one
Outline your lips 1–2 mm above their natural line, but it is important to remain delicate and follow the natural curve and not distort it.
3. Fill in your lips completely with a pencil
Cover the entire surface of your lips with the pencil – this will create an even base and extend the color's durability.
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4. Choose natural pink and beige shades
Soft shades with pink or warm brown undertones work best for this effect.
5. Add a light accent to the “Cupid's arch”
A drop of clear gloss or shimmer in the center of the upper lip creates the illusion of natural volume and seems to fill the lips from the inside.
A mistake to avoid
“Don't go beyond the contour at the corners of the lips – this can make the shape too round. It's important to work closer to the center and maintain natural proportions,” explains Nolven Kenten.
Based on material from: Vogue.fr