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After three eventful days of IMCAS in Paris, we can say that aesthetic medicine has reached a qualitatively new level, says Natalia Lyubynska, executive director of Alfa Development. The focus is no longer just on an attractive reflection in the mirror, but on a deep understanding of processes and age-related changes, support for longevity and natural maturation, as well as the safety of procedures for both specialists and their patients. Natalia talks about the main trends following the results of IMCAS specifically for vogue.ua.
What is IMCAS and why is it the most important event in the industry?
The International Congress IMCAS (International Master Course on Aging Science) has concluded in Paris – the No. 1 annual event in the world of aesthetic medicine and plastic surgery, setting trends and guidelines for the beauty market for the year ahead. The Congress serves as a key marker for dermatologists, plastic surgeons and other aesthetic medicine specialists, outlining the vector of industry development and determining which products and procedures will be in demand in the near future. It is IMCAS that shows which ideas will stay with us for a long time, and which will disappear as quickly as they appeared, after the emergence of new research.
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Typically, the main topics of the congress are:
- Skin aging and anti-aging procedures (new methods and technologies that help slow down aging processes are discussed);
- Aesthetic procedures that help correct skin imperfections or problematic conditions (all about the latest trends);
- New scientific research (presentation and discussion of the latest scientific evidence).
This year, 22,000 specialists gathered in Paris for the congress. IMCAS itself is traditionally distinguished by its scale and concentration of scientific information: research, professional events, training sessions, master classes, lectures, live demonstrations of procedures, presentations of new products, gala evenings, backstage conversations and professional discussions. For manufacturers, this is an opportunity to present the developments they have been working on over the past years and to communicate directly with aesthetic medicine specialists and distribution companies representing their products in different countries.
Aesthetic medicine is developing rapidly, so it is important for specialists to constantly keep their finger on the pulse: to acquire new knowledge, improve the quality of results, and improve professional skills.
IMCAS key insights
The main thesis of this year's IMCAS was that aesthetic medicine and dermatology are moving towards longevity – healthy skin longevity, and not just masking age with fillers (the so-called “lip-cheekbone” procedures). What is currently relevant is a deep understanding of age-related changes in the skin and the body as a whole, the mechanisms that determine how the skin reacts to aging, stress and the environment.
Today, the task of dermatologists and cosmetologists is to work with collagenogenesis, maintain elasticity, skin barrier, overall skin health, and minimize inflammatory processes and undesirable skin conditions. Therefore, peptides, exosomes, polynucleotides, polylactic acid, and other drugs in combination with hardware cosmetology remain relevant.
In 2026, patients and doctors prefer, albeit longer-lasting, natural stimulation of collagen and elastin production in the skin, rather than instant, but temporary results.
Exosomes
An important trend is the change in exosome therapy. Previously, there were discussions around human exosomes – they were considered more effective. But today the market and science are confidently moving towards plant exosomes, which demonstrate high biocompatibility, stability and safety, which is critically important in aesthetic medicine. Exosomes are applied exclusively topically (on the surface of the skin – Ed. Note) – and once again it is emphasized that exosomes are prohibited from being used by injection. They are especially effective after aggressive hardware procedures such as laser skin resurfacing, microneedle RF lifting.
Peptides
Peptides and peptide complexes were discussed separately, which are a tool for cellular communication and regeneration, correct unwanted or inflammatory skin conditions, and generally significantly improve skin quality, having a pronounced anti-aging effect.
NAD+
Relatively new active ingredients are increasingly being used in skincare cosmetics – for example, the popular NAD+.
NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a coenzyme responsible for energy metabolism and cell and DNA repair. In cosmetics, it is used to support skin repair, provide radiance, and reduce signs of aging.
Skin diagnostics
Special attention was paid to an absolute novelty: the AURA diagnostic device based on AI from Switzerland, hand-assembled. Using artificial intelligence, the new 3D facial analysis system clearly identifies problem areas, allows you to select protocols for each clinical case with extreme accuracy and predict results. The AI system creates a digital twin of the patient, evaluates the effectiveness of various treatment methods, helps the doctor model and show the patient the result of any intervention. Such a system is a completely new level of interaction with the patient, when the decisions of the doctor and the client are based on accurate indicators.
Such a diagnostic system is already available on the Ukrainian market, and more and more doctors are giving preference to this ultra-precise technological device.
Hardware cosmetology
Hardware cosmetology has traditionally been represented very widely. Almost all the market leaders, proven over decades, came. Their developments are based not only on years of research and large investments in science and technology, but also, most importantly, on safety and predictable results.
Most manufacturers are now focused on the safety of procedures and predictable results: protocols are being improved, and well-known devices are receiving updates.
Picosecond or nanosecond lasers are emerging to precisely treat pigmentation, rejuvenate skin, and improve its texture—with less risk of side effects, ultra-fast rehabilitation, or none at all.
It is interesting to observe the updates of the devices of the market leaders. They become more powerful, receive additional manipulators that allow combining technologies, as well as an improved interface and greater ease of use. For example, the well-known yellow laser for the treatment of vascular pathologies, neoplasms and rosacea from Asclepion Laser Technologies, which has been produced since 2013 in the same housing, was announced at IMCAS 2026 in a new design – more powerful, more convenient, more comfortable to use.
Achievements of Ukrainian doctors
I would like to separately mention the Ukrainian group of dermatologists and plastic surgeons who presented to the congress participants their unique results, developments, and methods of working with scars, burns, and other consequences of skin restoration after combat injuries.
Our doctors have learned to combine hardware technologies, collagen stimulators and post-procedure medications to restore the skin and improve the condition of scars. In many cases, this is done free of charge. This experience is unique: there is nothing like it in the world. The results are convincing and deserve not only admiration, but also recognition and dissemination in the world. It is a pity that this medical and aesthetic experience is obtained at such a terrible price.
