On the eve of Easter, we choose perfumes in which you can celebrate not only the Resurrection, but also life in general.
Modern perfumery began with incense and resins, which in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and ancient Greece were burned during prayers so that they would be more easily ascended and heard by the gods. In fact, the very word “perfume” comes from the Latin per fumum (“through smoke”). Over time, humanity learned to extract aromas and wear them on itself, but the name remained. As did the fashion for incense and resins.
Myrrh, always warm and balsamic, dark and sensual, has a distinct, recognizable aroma in both summer and winter. Frankincense is fragrant, combining notes of mastic tree and citrus. A complex, warm composition that resembles smoke even before the incense is lit.
Dominic Rock, “Essence Hunter: A Journey to the Sources of the World's Fragrances”
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Today, the aroma of incense and resins is perceived differently. For some, it is an association with a festive service in the temple, where the aromas of myrrh and elemi can be heard, for some – an exquisite accessory for an evening dress, for some – a soothing base for every day. Modern perfumers add unexpected accents to harsh resins: from red-hot metal to sweet candied fruits soaked in intoxicating rum.
Filippo Sorcinelli: Scents of the Heavenly Office
Speaking of incense, it is impossible to ignore the figure of Filippo Sorcinelli – an organist, artist and tailor whose atelier LAVS (Laboratorio Atelier Vesti Sacre) creates liturgical vestments for the highest clergy of the Vatican, including the Pope. His brand is “Extra-Niche” in its purest form: gloomy, melancholic, slightly gothic.
The house's most iconic scent is LAVS. Sorcinelli originally created it to treat the fabrics he used to make Catholic vestments, so that they would exude holiness right from the workshop. It's a cold, high, almost sterile incense—the smell of a Gothic cathedral, stone walls, and absolute peace.
For those looking for a sense of “earthly” church, Filippo Sorcinelli has the UNUM collection. The scent of Reliqvia is the scent of old oak pews soaked in wax and relics.
And the Extrait de Musique series (with stoppers that imitate organ knobs) offers Contre Bombarde 32, a sweet balsamic incense with notes of caramel. Each Sorcinelli bottle is an art object, covered in fabric or splashed with paint, appealing to the tactile and the spiritual at the same time.
Copal Azur, Aedes de Venustas
Copal Azur is one of the most famous perfume incenses in modern perfumery. An outstanding work by Bertrand Duchaufour: an icy coniferous incense with cola and sea salt.
Copal resin, whose name means “incense” in the Aztec language Nahuatl, bears a striking resemblance to frankincense. It is extracted from a variety of trees that grow in Central and South America. And, like frankincense in ancient Egypt and Greece, copal was burned by the Mayans and Aztecs to “feed” the gods. Today, it is still used in Mexico for spiritual purposes. Since copal cannot be used as an ingredient in perfumes, three different frankincense extracts are used to recreate the scent.
Royal Incense, Omanluxury
Oman's niche perfume house Omanluxury is famous for its incense. Their “top” green incense Hojari is one of the best in the world. In this fragrance, this beautiful incense is combined with the waxy warmth of candles. This gives the effect of a solemn church liturgy. But without a priest. A very beautiful aroma that envelops, comforts, and soothes.
Castiamanti, Agatho Parfum
Agatho Castiamanti is also churchy and also very beautiful. Compared to Royal Incense, it is more “spiritual”, more “priestly”. And its stopper is a hollowed-out Easter egg. There is no red wine in the pyramid, but the perfume smells of it – tart, velvety, decorated with myrrh. Festive and cheerful.
Enigma Pour Homme, Roja London
Enigma Pour Homme Roja London is another festive incense (they actually brilliantly hid Chanel 5 there – just between us)). This is a secular incense with panettone and candied fruits soaked in strong alcohol.
Fleur Danger, Thomas de Monaco
New from the niche brand Thomas de Monaco – Fleur Danger – a “predatory” incense. Metal, scale, bright light that burns the eyes and skin. But the Old Testament angels say: “Do not be afraid, everything will turn out for the best.”
Groove Xcape, Xerjoff
Xerjoff has a lot of incense. It is believed that this is part of the brand's signature. In this composition, the incense is frosty, more Christmassy, as if in an old wooden church with drafts. Church incense is combined here with myrrh, elemi, benzoin, labdanum – and organ music. The fragrance was created in collaboration with musician Max Kazacci – so it really “sounds”.
Incense, Balenciaga Perfume
Time-tested, it conveys the spirit of sacred perfumery through a trio of transcendent incense oils, where cedar and Spanish labdanum resin give the scent amber warmth and crystalline purity.
The incense in the composition is dry, restrained, almost ascetic. There is no decorativeness in it – just smoke, a little dust and a feeling of space.
Series 3: Incense Avignon, Comme des Garçons
Avignon is the canon. The same “church” incense that started the fashion for “spiritual” fragrances. Thick, smoky, with myrrh and the cold stone of old cathedrals. This is the smell of a service where wax, smoke and the dampness of the walls mix.
#403 Extracts, Bon Parfumeur
#403 is a softer, more modern take on incense. Here it is wrapped in myrrh and a light, almost gourmand sweetness. It recreates the atmosphere of the Arabian Nights.
Encens Suave, Matière Première
Encens Suave is a ground incense with ambergris: warm, dense, almost caramel. Thanks to benzoin, coffee, and vanilla, it is full-bodied and not at all ascetic. It reminds of heavy velvet curtains, high frescoed ceilings, and the splashing of water near the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute.
Falu Röd, Björk & Berries
Falu Röd is a “Scandinavian” incense – woody, with a sense of paint, resin and cold air. Here the incense sounds quiet, as if woven into the forest and old houses. It hints at a closeness to nature rather than religion.
Olibanum Gardenia, Bohoboco
Olibanum Gardenia is a contrasting duo: a white floral accord and dry, slightly bitter incense – like two sides of human nature, light and dark. Incense makes the composition more collected, almost graphic, and provides the effect of chiaroscuro – the play of light and shadow. The creators of Olibanum Gardenia are sure that perfumes cleanse the aura.
Encens Sacré, Perris Monte Carlo
This fragrance is a deep, meditative interpretation of incense that sounds modern and sophisticated. It reveals incense from different sides – its smoky essence and soft, resinous warmth. Unlike other “church” scents that can seem cold and harsh, Encens Sacre is softened by a floral heart. Rose and jasmine add velvety texture to the composition, while sandalwood and ambergris in the base create a cozy and creamy trail. It feels luxurious and spiritual, but at the same time wearable.