Ballet flats have had a long and successful life cycle in fashion. In the 2010s, they were an important part of the wardrobe of women like Alexa Chung and Kate Moss. Later, ballet flats reappeared on the catwalks of Ferragamo, JW Anderson and, of course, Simone Rocha. After a brief period of oblivion, when fashion was taken over by massive Fila sneakers, Y2K Buffalo boots and other uncomfortable models, ballet flats have made a comeback. Last year, this comeback was especially noticeable. Balletcrosses (a combination of ballet flats and sneakers), soft loafers and heels were once again in the spotlight. One of the brands that confidently supported this renaissance of elegance was the French Repetto. This brand's shoes were loved by Lily-Rose Depp, Kaia Gerber and other fashion heroines of the new generation.
Celine spring-summer 2026
Advertising.
But before ballet flats became part of any core aesthetic, Repetto had a different and rather unexpected fan. That was Serge Gainsbourg. In the 1970s, he was a regular wearer of the Zizi, the brand's soft shoes named after dancer Zizi Jeanmer, the daughter-in-law of the brand's founder. Today, at Maison Gainsbourg, a museum in Paris dedicated to the singer, you can see a pair of his favorite, well-worn Repetto shoes. Jane Birkin bought this pair for him because she was worried about his “fragile” ankles. These shoes are reminiscent of the classic derby silhouette, which is especially relevant this season.
Simone Rocha spring-summer 2026
Miu Miu spring-summer 2026
The origin of the derby is still controversial. Some historians associate this model with Edward Smith-Stanley, the 14th Earl of Derby. It is believed that his shoemaker had to create an elegant but durable shoe for him. Others mention the Prussian military Gebhard-Leberecht von Blücher, who needed practical footwear for the battlefield. This model was also known under the names Blucher, Gibson and Lorne. In the 1850s, derbies became popular footwear for sports and hunting. By the early 20th century, they had become part of everyday wardrobes. Despite their similar shape, Gainsbourg's favorite pair was much softer, more flexible and more delicate than the classic derby.
Jacquemus spring-summer 2024
Today, derbies, especially minimalist and soft models, are making a comeback. Jacquemus was one of the first to support this movement, releasing a collaboration with Repetto for the spring-summer 2024 season. Almost simultaneously, Lemaire turned to lace-up models. Later, derbies also appeared at Celine, where Michael Ryder's French version of the American preppy style quickly became a new trend. Jonathan Anderson's debut for Dior is also worth adding to this list. In addition to Repetto, designer Emma François's Sessùn brand also deserves attention. It has an elegant and soft version of the derby called Astaire. The name, of course, refers to the legendary American dancer Fred Astaire. The model is made of smooth patent leather.
Celine spring-summer 2026
Derbys are more practical than ballet flats, which often seem too thin and fragile. These shoes are truly designed for comfortable walking, and this is their main advantage. It is especially worth taking a closer look at a white pair in the style of Serge Gainsbourg. White derbies convey lightness, ease and the same playfulness that is especially desired in spring.
