But there are things that really work. And the word “acid” on the jar has long ceased to be about burns from a chemistry textbook, but about an adequate way to force the skin to renew itself, informs Ukr.Media.
Once upon a time, we all sinned with scrubs. We rubbed our faces and scratched our skin to the point of microtrauma. Acids work differently, without this medieval cruelty. Imagine that the dead cells on your face are held on to a kind of biological glue. The acid dissolves this glue. That's it. The skin itself sheds excess ballast, and in the morning you look as if you slept for eight hours, not three.
But buying the first jar labeled “acid” is a bad idea. Let’s look at what acids are and what they are used for.
AHA acids (Fruit acids)
They only work on the surface. Their goal is to remove dullness, erase blemishes from past acne, and make your face glow.
Glycolic acid is a bulldozer. It has the smallest molecule of all, so it penetrates deeply and acts aggressively. It really polishes the skin, making it taut and smooth. But if you have thin skin, or a network of blood vessels protruding on your cheeks, glycolic acid will make you burn and suffer. This is a toy for tight skin that has already seen life.
Lactic acid is my favorite during periods when the heating turns me into a mummy. It is the only acid that manages not only to exfoliate, but also to moisturize. It works like a magnet for water. If you have never used acids, have dry or tight skin that is constantly peeling – start with it.
Mandelic acid is designed for those whose skin throws a tantrum from any intervention. Mandelic acid molecules are large, they penetrate the skin very slowly, so they do not irritate it. Ideal for those who blush from the wind, but still have small rashes and want to somehow narrow the pores.
BHA acids
Here we have one star, but what a star – salicylic acid. While AHAs work on the surface, BHA is able to penetrate the sebum right into the pores. It dissolves sebaceous plugs, which we used to call blackheads, and dries out everything that has become inflamed.
This is a must-have for combination and oily skin. But I have to warn you about one unpleasant thing: in the first weeks of use you may break out a lot. The acid accelerates cell renewal, and all those acne germs that were sitting deep and should have come out in a month or two come to the surface at once and quickly. Usually at this moment, girls in a panic throw the jar in the trash. Better try to endure this cleansing period, and then your pores will thank you.
PHA acids (Polyhydroxy acids)
Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid have such gigantic molecules that they simply lie on the surface of the skin and very lazily sweep away dead cells.
They are designed for hypersensitive skin, for people with eczema, dermatitis or for those who do not tolerate any other active ingredients at all, but are tired of looking at a gray face in the mirror. However, there is an important rule here: if you have an exacerbation (active phase) of eczema, atopic or contact dermatitis with damage to the skin barrier, applying any acids is strictly prohibited. First, you need to cure the inflammation with medicinal ointments and emollients, and only during the period of remission can you carefully introduce PHA acids. They do not irritate at all and moisturize well.
Separate species: Azelaic acid
I would actually call it a health professional, not an exfoliant. Azelaic acid does little to dissolve dead cells, but instead methodically kills acne-causing bacteria.
It is great at relieving redness, brightening post-acne and is a real salvation for those with rosacea. It can also dissolve deep, painful subcutaneous fat. Just be prepared: in the first few days it can cause unbearable itching and tingling on the skin. This is not an allergy, it is its signature style. Apply a thin layer only to a dry face and give your skin time to get used to it.
Seasonality: when and which acids to use?
It used to be believed that any acid leaves behind unprotected skin that the sun would simply burn, leaving behind age spots. But this is a somewhat outdated rule.
In fact, only AHA acids (such as glycolic or lactic) increase skin photosensitivity. On the other hand, BHA (salicylic acid) and PHA acids, on the other hand, have mild photoprotective properties and do NOT increase skin sensitivity to the sun. This also applies to azelaic acid. They can be safely used all year round.
Therefore, it is not necessary to hide the jars deep in the closet with the onset of late spring. Even AHA acids can be used in the summer, as long as you apply SPF50 daily and do not lie on the beach in direct sunlight.
By the way, simply hiding the jar in May won't save you: your skin remains vulnerable to UV rays for 7 days after you stop using AHA acids. Therefore, the main rule remains: if your routine includes acids, leaving the house without a generous layer of SPF 50 is tantamount to a crime against yourself.
How not to burn your face
Finally, a little life experience, because I've seen too many girls with red, peeling faces who just wanted to become beautiful in one evening.
You don't need to buy an acid wash, polish it with an acid toner and cover it with an acid cream. Leave something alone. This will be quite enough. Start with twice a week, preferably in the evening. Do you feel a slight tingling sensation for the first minute? This is normal, the product is working. Do you feel that your face is burning as if you put it in an oven? Wash it off immediately.
And if you still overdid it, overdid it, and your skin is now red, flaky, and sore from just plain water — you've broken your protective barrier. No active ingredients in the coming weeks. Only the mildest cleanser and the most boring base cream with ceramides and panthenol. Recover and be gentler on yourself next time.
No matter how much I praise acids, remember – I am sharing my experience, not writing you a prescription. Your skin may have its own opinion about glycolic or salicylic acid. If you have diagnosed skin diseases (severe forms of acne, psoriasis, severe exacerbation of couperose) – first a dermatologist, and only then experiments with jars. Never neglect a sensitivity test on a small area of skin. Take care of yourself.
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