As recent collections have shown, fashion is clearly in search of beauty, glamour and emotion. With Wuthering Heights once again dominating pop culture, the spring and fall 2026 shows have seen a renewed romantic mood. Bustiers and corsets are back at Bora Aksu and Anna Sui. Delicate lace is on show at Simone Rocha and Cecilie Bahnsen. Art Deco-inspired low-cut waists are a big part of Chanel, Marni and Rabanne. Combined with the trend for uplifting colours from Auralee to Prada and Ferragamo, a silk coat with fur trim and floral print is a fitting addition.
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The opera coat trend has already been embraced by celebrities and street style stars. It’s worn by Alexa Chung, Zoe Kravitz, Kate Moss, and Jennifer Lawrence. The luxurious outerwear is a natural extension of the balletcore aesthetic of past seasons, seemingly moving from the stage to the auditorium.
Conner Ives fall-winter 2026/2027
One of the most notable takes on the fur-trimmed silk opera coat was presented by London designer Conner Ives. He has already dressed Jennifer Lawrence, Kate Moss and Zoe Kravitz in his semi-couture floral silk coats. Tish Weinstock opened the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 show in a long silk coat made from recycled vintage fur and Qing Dynasty tapestries. The pieces show a clear attention to craftsmanship. At the same time, they are easy to combine with casual clothes – for example, with a T-shirt and jeans. As Ives noted in a comment for Vogue, it is the most expensive item in his line, but at the same time a bestseller.
Alexa Chung in Viktor Gichev
London-based designer Viktor Gichev of Bulgarian origin is also developing this trend. He creates his own interpretation of the opera coat with an antique character. Gichev also runs the One Of A Kind archive on Portobello Road in London. There he selects items from different eras: light Alexander McQueen and Dior dresses from the John Galliano era, Fendi furs, Chanel sets and expressive outerwear from the Tom Ford era at Gucci. Alexa Chung appeared in his jacquard coat, created from floral curtain fabric and recycled mink fur.
This coat has a voluminous round shape without a rigid cut. It is defined by the volume, drape and texture of the fabric. The fur is taken from old vintage coats that the designer finds on eBay. The top is made of antique furniture fabric. “There is something important in giving things a second life – they retain memory and energy,” Gichev says in a comment for Vogue. “I like fabrics with history.” He is inspired by historical opera coats and silhouettes of the early 20th century, as well as the designs of Paul Poiret and Romeo Gigli. At the same time, he does not strive for things to look like theatrical costumes. He suggests combining them with jeans and modern clothes.
Jennifer Lawrence in Conner Ives
A look back through the archives provides plenty of references for this trend. “I discovered John Galliano's Fall/Winter 1998/99 collection and started to study the silk coats and robes,” says writer Alice Betts. “And then Conner Ives really cemented it in my subconscious. My light blue floral robe is a vintage find.” Vintage often provides the best examples of such things.
“People want things that have been put in a lot of time and effort,” says vintage and antiques curator Lucia Zolea. It’s evident in the details: embroidery, floral motifs, pastoral scenes, appliqués. Such things create a distinct and personal style. Among Zolea’s latest finds is a 1940s jacket in a soft yellow shade, made of silk with a floral pattern and complemented by a natural fur collar. “People are looking for originality and want to have a thing that suits their taste,” she says. “For me, it’s important to give the person this thing and this feeling.” In her collection, such coats and robes are combined with other unique pieces: a pink Schiaparelli evening jacket from the 1930s with carousel horse embroidery and acrobat buttons, brocade capes and antique glass bags.
Photo: Alice Betts
Samantha Lees of Jellybean Vintage in New York also recently found a vintage Adrienne Landau kimono-style robe. She snapped it up in minutes. It was a soft blue jacket with fox fur trim. She has sold at least four robes in different colors and speaks of the style's almost cult-like popularity. “It's a statement piece, but it's very easy to wear,” she says. “It's a one-size-fits-all. It doesn't have to be complicated to style—you just throw it on and go. I'm always looking for those comfortable pieces with a couture feel.”
More and more independent designers are reimagining the silhouette and adding modern touches. “It feels like a return to a more expressive silhouette in the spirit of the 1980s,” says Anna Karells. Her brand Carelli, founded in 2025, has quickly become known for its coats and jackets made of faux fur with bright prints. These pieces have been worn by Olivia Dean, Peggy Gu and Paige Lorenze. Carelli’s jacket, called Rosa, with fur lapels and a soft silhouette, is already in high demand in pre-orders. The new Zelda model, with a zebra print and a sharp cut, has attracted the same interest: “It shows that people are gravitating towards statement pieces.”
Gichev attributes the popularity of the opera coat to the tension between reality and what people are emotionally seeking. “In the age of AI and ChatGPT, everything seems too practical and soulless,” he says. “There’s a strong desire for romance and escape from reality.” Want to try this trend? There are many options. “You can wear such a robe to a black-tie dinner, or just to walk the dog in sweatpants,” Gichev adds.
Carelli
Based on material from www.vogue.com