Tom Ford left fashion a few years ago, but his name still resonates in the fashion industry. Ford's era at Gucci was actively reinterpreted by Demna, and his collections for Saint Laurent are also regularly quoted. And, of course, the Tom Ford brand remains, where Heider Ackermann works at the peak of his form.
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After the deep blue that dominated last season's sets, this time Ackermann literally turned up the lights to the max to clearly show the stark graphics of white and black that began the show: double-breasted men's suits, animalistic patterns, and perhaps most interestingly, soft pants held up only by a thin belt that slipped out of its loops.
A series of looks in transparent plastic followed: a cropped blazer, a trench coat, and even a scarf. Only Ackermann could turn a material associated with children's raincoats into a tool of fashion provocation. Under A-line skirts made of this material, lacy underwear and stockings with the TF logo were clearly visible.
However, the collection was not just a game of provocation. Another new element was dark denim with a faded effect and deep creases. For women, it was presented in two cuts – relaxed and more structured. For men, the ultra-high rise was a silhouette that was repeated in classic trousers, complemented by pastel shirts and ties.
It was Akermann’s most diverse collection for the brand. But he remains most compelling in his tailoring: pinstripes or houndstooth and suits styled with shirts unbuttoned almost to the navel and lush floral bodices. For the evening, the designer showed just two black dresses, which looked almost restrained – especially compared to last season’s sheer, one-strap dress that Teyana Taylor wore to the Time 100 Gala. Akermann may have saved his biggest statements for next week’s Oscars.
Men wore silk scarves instead of shirts under cropped jackets, and trousers were once again held on by a thin belt and slid dangerously down one side. Now everyone will be watching closely to see which men dare to appear on the red carpet in them.