Alaïa's fall-winter 2026/27 show was one of the most anticipated at Paris Fashion Week this season, as Peter Muller showed his final collection as the brand's creative director. The Belgian designer joined the House in 2021, and earlier this year it was announced that he would be heading Versace this summer. We tell you more about his final collection for Alaïa.
Advertising.
The venue was packed with industry stars, from Mathieu Blasi to Raf Simons. There was a sense of support and unity in the air, with clients and friends congratulating Muller, and he thanked his entire team. The Belgian did so in the show notes, and also dedicated a space around the venue to the Alaia staff. The walls of the hall were adorned with screens depicting portraits of each of the atelier’s employees, created by Keizo Kitajima.
Under Muller’s direction, simplicity, body and form remained Alaïa’s main love language. The collection opened with strikingly simple, minimalist, figure-hugging slip dresses. They supported two important trends – 1990s minimalism and the body-con aesthetic. But that was only the preface – then the audience saw more complex, yet concise, looks. Long double-breasted coats with gloves, draped dresses with geometric crocodile inserts, column dresses and outfits with high slits became the basis of the collection.
The most interesting part of Muller’s vision came in the final looks—conceptual yet workable. Viewers saw ’60s-inspired trapeze coats, skirt suits with unexpected fur trim, and leather jackets with stiff pleated tutus. A sculptural orange tube dress with ankle cuffs was the most provocative example of going beyond the usual silhouettes. It was the last look at Muller’s chapter at Alaïa. Until the brand announced a successor, the fashion community was frozen in anticipation of how the designer would interpret the Versace legacy in just a few months.
