When I met Antonin Thron at his new Balmain office in late January, Paris was in the midst of haute couture week. Antonin Thron had just moved into the space. Earlier this year, the Balmain fashion house had moved from the 8th to the 9th arrondissement of Paris. The large room was almost entirely devoid of furniture or decor. The only notable object was a little black dress on a mannequin in the corner.
Antonin Thron in his new office at Balmain headquarters. Photo: Lee Whittaker
The velvet and jersey dress with its softly draped silhouette reminded me of Antonin Throne's Atlein, so I mistakenly thought it was from Balmain's fall collection. It was actually an archive Pierre Balmain design from 1946.
Despite the high-profile era of Olivier Rousteing and his Balmain Army, and the brand's success in the 2000s under Christophe Decarnin, Balmain's early days are often overlooked. The house was led by Oscar de la Renta from 1993 to 2002. Antonin Thron brings the focus back to the brand's origins and reimagines them today.
“I've been deeply immersed in the history of Balmain,” says Tron. “The brand was founded in 1945, in a war-torn Paris. Balmain's mother sold her wedding ring to help him start the couture house. It's almost never talked about.”
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Mannequins and patterns for the autumn-winter 2026/2027 collection. Photo: Lee Whittaker
For Antonin Thron, Balmain is a big opportunity. He is 41. For ten years he has been developing Atlein, a brand of tight, form-fitting clothes with clear lines that have become a sexy alternative to the “quiet luxury” trend. However, competing with the big Parisian houses is not easy.
Before founding Atlein, Tron worked at Balenciaga—under Nicolas Ghesquière, Alexandre Weng, and Demna—and later with Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, a job that provided stability for his own brand.
In preparation for his debut at Balmain, Antonin Thron carefully read Pierre Balmain's autobiography, My Years and Seasons. The book describes Pierre Balmain's friendship with Christian Dior. They worked together at the house of Lucien Lelong as young apprentices. For some time, they planned to create a joint brand. The history of fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries could have been different if this plan had been implemented. Pierre Balmain opened his own brand before Dior. However, unlike Dior and its New Look, which will be dedicated to a series on Apple TV in 2024, Balmain's codes remained less clearly formulated.
Shoulder pads are a recurring motif in the new collection. Photo: Lee Whittaker
Antonin Thron believes that the foundation of the Balmain brand was glamour. “The Balmain woman is uncompromising and unbourgeois. She has character,” says the designer. Part of this is due to Balmain's Hollywood connections. Brigitte Bardot's translucent dresses in the film “And God Created Woman” were made by Balmain. Pierre Balmain also worked on Sophia Loren's costumes in the film “Slumdog Millionaire”. Balmain's clients included Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Judy Garland and Josephine Baker. In France, Pierre Balmain dressed the first female pilot for Air France.
It is to this figure that Antonin Thron dedicates the first look of the Balmain show. It is a black leather jacket with 1940s-style shoulders. The waist is clearly emphasized. The bottom is decorated with a peplum. The look is complemented by tapered pants, stockings and heels. “I want Balmain looks to be daring and dynamic,” says Antonin Thron.
The Balmain show's scenography is reminiscent of an old house. It was created together with architect Andrea Faragona. Last year, he received the Golden Lion at the Venice Architecture Biennale. “When you enter a house with 80 years of history, you feel the presence of the past. Everyone has their own vision of what Balmain should be. You need to work with this heritage, not push it away,” says Tron.
Rolls of fabric in a Balmain warehouse. Photo: Lee Whittaker
At the same time, Antonin's own style is clearly visible in the new Balmain collection. “At Atlein, I felt like a director shooting a film on an iPhone. Now I have more options. I can work with embroidery and complex cuts,” says the designer. While Olivier Rousteing relied on brightness and maximalism, Tron describes his approach at Balmain as “minimal luxury.” For example, Balmain's signature animal motif appears in the form of an embroidered leopard-print jacket with a zipper.
Accessories are a new direction for Antonin Thron at Balmain. The designer sees them as a promising category for the brand's development, as Balmain has focused more on ready-to-wear than leather goods in the 21st century. Among the new accessories from Balmain is a soft leather clutch. It is inspired by the designer's surfer bag. Balmain's version is not waterproof, but has a design similar to a dry bag used in water sports.
After his Balmain debut, Antonin Thron will travel to Sri Lanka. He does this every year after the Atlein shows in March. “We're going with a big group. It's a relaxing vacation,” the designer says. After the trip, Antonin Thron will return to work at Balmain.
Antonen Tron. Photo: Lee Whittaker
Based on material from vogue.com