The skin barrier is our body's first line of defense against the outside world. That's why it suffers the most from seasonal changes, climate conditions, and even our skin care habits, including over-exfoliation. Restoring the skin barrier is a key step in skin care, even if you don't have genetically sensitive skin.
How to strengthen the skin barrier
To perform its essential functions, the skin barrier needs to be healthy. Its job is to “help the skin retain moisture and protect it from external stressors, irritants, and infections,” explains Dr. I. Claire Chang, a dermatologist in New York City. “Instead, a damaged barrier “can lead to dryness, sensitivity, inflammation, and irritation,” she adds. “Maintaining the skin barrier with effective skincare ingredients is the easiest and most effective way to keep your skin healthy.”
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Active ingredients like ceramides, cholesterol, and other lipids are staples in moisturizers and balms, as they replenish the compounds that are already naturally present in the skin's barrier. Meanwhile, ingredients like panthenol and natural moisturizing factors play a less visible but vital role in barrier repair and are definitely worth adding to your skincare routine.
What to avoid in winter skin care
It's also important to remember: What you avoid in your skincare routine is just as important as what you use. “Avoid ingredients that can dry out or damage the skin barrier, including alcohol, harsh mechanical scrubs, and over-exfoliation in general,” warns Dr. Carmen Castilla, a dermatologist in New York City. With that in mind, here are the ingredients to add to your routine to keep your skin healthy and beautiful all winter long and beyond.
In our list of recommendations:
- ceramides;
- cholesterol lipids;
- panthenol;
- niacinamide;
- colloidal oatmeal;
- natural moisturizing factors.
Ceramides
Ceramides are arguably the most well-known ingredient for repairing the skin barrier, and it makes sense: they’re a natural part of it. According to Dr. Chang, these lipids make up about 50% of the skin’s barrier. They “act as a glue between skin cells, preventing moisture loss and maintaining skin integrity.” However, ceramide levels decline with age, due to aggressive skincare (frequent cleansing, harsh surfactants, and exfoliants), and environmental factors, such as dry winter air. Fortunately, it’s relatively easy to restore ceramide levels with the help of specialized creams. “Topical ceramides help replace natural lipids, repair the barrier, and improve skin hydration,” says Dr. Chang.
Cholesterol lipids
Cholesterol is an unsung hero in skin care. While it’s often given a negative connotation in other aspects of health, it’s a vital component of the skin’s barrier. However, ceramides, cholesterol, and other lipids (particularly free fatty acids) must be present in the right proportions for the barrier to truly repair itself, says Dr. Chang. “Cholesterol helps organize the ceramides and increase the flexibility of the barrier, while fatty acids seal the cells together,” adds Dr. Castilla.
Panthenol
Dr. Chang calls panthenol the “unsung hero” of skin barrier repair. It's also known as provitamin B5 and has long been used in hair care. For the skin, panthenol works as both a humectant (attracts moisture) and a soothing ingredient. “It has healing and anti-inflammatory properties, reducing redness, irritation, and sensitivity,” the dermatologist explains.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is well-known for its multi-functional properties. “It’s a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient that helps fight oxidative stress and signs of aging,” says Dr. Chang. It also stimulates ceramide production and balances sebum, actively strengthening the skin barrier. Studies show that niacinamide penetrates the barrier and makes it more flexible in cases of dryness.
Colloidal oatmeal
For skin with a severely compromised barrier or eczema, colloidal oatmeal is one of the most effective ingredients. It not only supports, but also significantly reduces itching and irritation, while reducing inflammation, which destroys the barrier. Its effectiveness is so high that the FDA recognizes colloidal oatmeal as an active ingredient in over-the-counter dermatological products.
Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF)
Natural moisturizing factors are not a single ingredient, but a group of components that attract and retain water in the skin, explains Dr. Castilla. They maintain optimal moisture levels in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Their deficiency is manifested by dryness and flaking. Effective NMFs include lactic acid, urea (up to 5%), and sodium PCA.
Based on material from: Vogue.fr