Five years at Alaïa were not just another career milestone for Peter Muller, but a moment in which the designer managed to subtly and convincingly reinterpret the legacy of one of the most secretive and sculptural fashion houses. Arriving at the brand in 2021, Muller faced a difficult task: to preserve the spirit of Azzedine Alaïa while at the same time restoring Alaïa's voice in the contemporary fashion dialogue – without nostalgia, but with deep respect.
Alaia, fall-winter 2025/2026
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Peter Muller is a Belgian designer who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He spent most of his career working alongside Raf Simons, working as his right-hand man at Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein. It was there that Muller developed a reputation as a quiet but highly influential creative with an exceptional sense of design and proportion, as well as a deep understanding of the power of minimalism. His appointment at Alaïa was his first independent directorship – and a rare example of the perfect match between designer and house.
Muller’s approach to Alaïa was measured and delicate. He intuitively wove the brand’s signature eccentricity into contemporary designs, both in clothing and accessories, which quickly went viral. The iconic Le Teckel bag, mesh ballet flats, and sculptural shapes became not just fashion hits, but markers of a new era for Alaïa.
Le Teckel bag, fall-winter 2024/2025
Le Teckel bag, fall-winter 2024/2025
He presented his first collection for the Maison in the spring-summer 2022 season. Since then, his architectural thinking, work with volume, clear lines and special attention to accessories have proven to be a winning formula. During his leadership, the brand has not only strengthened its position, but also significantly expanded its retail presence: the number of Alaïa boutiques worldwide has increased to twenty.
Alaia, spring-summer 2022
Alaia, spring-summer 2022
The Spring/Summer 2023 collection, shown in New York, definitively cemented Alaïa's status as a cult brand among a new generation. Asymmetrical bodysuits, plunging necklines, sculptural hoods, and skintight silhouettes instantly took social media by storm, restoring the brand's desirability and recognition.
Alaia, spring-summer 2023
Alaia, spring-summer 2023
Muller managed to create a coherent, confident and consistent aesthetic in which conceptual ambition always ultimately boiled down to striking simplicity. The autumn-winter 2024/2025 collection was born literally from a single thread, while other seasons explored the tension between body and form, enveloping models in abstract but entirely wearable pieces.
Alaia, fall-winter 2024/2025
Alaia, fall-winter 2024/2025
The main thing that made Peter Muller loved at Alaïa was his principled refusal to quote archives literally. Instead of direct retro, the designer chose the path of an intuitive reading of heritage: corporeality, sculpturality, the iconic “second skin”, the tension between strength and sensuality – all of this sounded modern and convincing.
Alaia, spring-summer 2025
Alaia, spring-summer 2025
Under Muller, Alaïa once again became a cultural platform, not just a fashion brand. His shows were accompanied by artistic contexts, collaborating with photographers, artists and architects. For him, space was as important a tool as the body, and this was felt in every collection.
Alaia, spring-summer 2026
Alaia, spring-summer 2026
Peter Muller's era at Alaïa is an example of how to work with heritage without fear or sentimentality. He didn't try to be the next Azzedine Alaïa – and that's why his work was so compelling.
Alaia, Resort 2026
Alaia, Resort 2026